Both the borough of Ezeiza and the City of Buenos Aires run authorised taxi services from both terminals. The journey into central Buenos Aires should take approximately 45 minutes.

www.aa2000.com.ar

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A fun art hotel run by two Germans in the colonial San Telmo district. Each room is decorated with works by different artists. Its modern restaurant serves kitsch cocktails and there are art events, poetry readings and DJ parties on weekends. Prices range from $30 to $50 a night.

Estados Unidos, 1393; Tel: 4381 6064; www.boquitas-pintadas.com.ar/

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The best meat in town can be found at Cabaña las Lilas. Its luxurious setting in the converted dockside area of Puerto Madero complements the impeccable service.

Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo, 516; Tel: 4313 1336

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Situated in Palermo Soho, the Uriarte Bar attracts the arty crowd with its wood-burning oven and a sophisticated menu.

Uriarte, 1572; Tel: 4834 6004

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Released as The Swamp in Britain, it relates the slow decay of a middle-class family and contains a rare insight into the Argentine psyche.

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The best ice cream in Argentina, which is saying more than a lot, is based on the gelati traditions from immigrant Italians and improved with the superior milk from Argentine dairies.

Salguero, 2591; 9am-2am

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Take taxis everywhere. They are cheap, never costing more than a few euros for most inner-city rides, the drivers are talkative to a fault, and they don't expect tips. As a matter of fact, they will usually round off the cents in your favour.

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The city's beautiful sprawling green lung, 350 acres of trees and lakes created by a 19th-century French landscape artist. Visit the zoo, the botanical gardens or the planetarium. The city government provides free outdoor gym classes while others jog, skate, cycle, play soccer or simply soak in the sun.

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The Argentinian equivalent of a sirloin steak, so tender that in some restaurants waiters will cut it with a spoon while serving.

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Soft lighting, Moroccan cuisine and cushions on the floor make Bereber an ideal choice for an intimate dinner.

Armenia, 1880; Tel: 4833 5662

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Pick up some of the great new fashions from young Argentinian designers. They look good, feel great and with the favourable exchange rate, are exceptionally affordable. Palermo Soho is peppered with cosy boutiques. Men should pay a visit to Felix for casual clothes with a colourful dash, while women looking for something chic and bohemian should try Cat Ballou where clothes are made from traditional Argentinian materials and velvet dyed by the owners.

Felix: Gurruchaga, 1670; Tel: 4832 2994; www.felixba.com.ar/; Cat Ballou: Costa Rica, 4520

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Preserves the memory of Argentina's champion of the poor, Eva Perón, both in her early role as film actress and her later status as political and social idol.

Lafinur, 2988; Tel: 4807 0306; Tues-Sun, 2-7.30pm; www.evitaperon.org/museum/

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It's noisy and crowded and fun, and as its name denotes, unique. The preferred pre- and after-club gathering spot for the youthful crowd that congregates in Palermo Hollywood.

Honduras, 5602

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Take a leisurely stroll through the old neighbourhood of Palermo Viejo and its hip enclaves Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, where young Argentine artists and the expatriate Americans and Europeans who have made Buenos Aires their home in recent years tend to dwell. On weekends you'll find lots of outdoor activity going on, live music, hippie fairs and art exhibits. It doesn't get more pleasant than this.

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The final resting ground for generations of Argentina's elite. An eerily peaceful mini-city of the dead, featuring marble and stone mausoleums coronated with angels blowing stone trumpets and life-size likenesses of the illustrious departed. Ironically, this is where Evita Perón, who fought the country's oligarchy so fiercely, rests, in the Duarte family vault, under three layers of thick steel to guard her coffin from would-be desecrators.

Junín, 1760; Tel: 4803 1594

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To keep up with what's going on in the city, try WUBA (What's Up In Buenos Aires), a website run by an expat American living in Buenos Aires.

www.whatsupbuenosaires.com/

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Probably the city's most luxurious hotel, the five-star Alvear's French-style architecture, thick carpets and courteous service reek of old-world splendour, as do the prices which begin at $410 for a double room.

Avenida Alvear, 1891; Tel: 4808-2100; www.alvearpalace.com/

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With rooms available from $74 to $107, this hotel is a well-kept secret. Ideally located in the posh Recoleta district, it is a stone's throw away from Recoleta Cemetery, the city's main museums and arts centres and some of its fanciest restaurants.

Schiaffino, 2189; Tel: 4804 9631; www.hotelplazafrancia.com/

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Pippo specializes in pasta but the real attraction is the clientele itself, loud and gesticulating Porteños in their natural environment.

Montevideo, 341; Tel: 4374 0762

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Although first published in 1977 and a travel journal rather than a novel, Bruce Chatwin's In Patagonia admirably conveys the uniqueness of the Argentine experience and points you in all the right directions.

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