Malasaña is a street and an area well known by all true 16-30 Madrileños. In the day time you can shop for some retro treasures in the two 'Popland' boutiques (one for bags, badges and tee-shirts, the other for sixties home decorations and posters). Then, well after dark, you can return and be part of the Madrid sub-culture night life. Go into some bars off Plaza Dos de Mayo and you'll think you've stepped onto the set of Austin Powers (without the irony!) There are all types of bars and clubs round here, but they all have one thing in common: the cool factor. The music is cool, the people dress cool, but most importantly, the attitude is cool, that is to say, laid back.

Malasaña district. Nearest tube: Tribunal.

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Situated in the heart of Chueca, Madrid's vibrant and welcoming gay district, Aquarella is a bar you'll want to go back to. Tucked away on Calle Gravina, you will notice the flickering lights and luxurious interiour of this quiet bar. Take a seat on one of their antique chairs and you will be waited on by a friendly, handsome waiter. An intimate hide away, you can go with friends, a lover or alone. If you do go alone, be sure to brouse through Aquarella's small but always interesting collection of second hand fiction. Order a cocktail and keep your voice down. If you become a regular, the waiters will invite you to a drink. Que disfrutes.

Turn left down calle Gravina, just out of Chueca tube station. It's a 30 second walk from the metro, next to a funky hairdresser's.

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A slightly less touristy version of the Plaza Mayor, here you can find fantastic authentic Spanish restaurants and tapas bars. The food is delicious yet cheap. Start your evening in the plaza itself, with a glass of rioja and some tapas. Then, choose any side street leading off from the square and you'll be sure to find a good quality restaurant. Once you have dined on 'oreja' (pork's ear fried in garlic), chorizo, jamon serrano and other carnivorous delights, you can walk down calle Huertas and choose a late night bar in which to finish your evening.

Plaza Santa Ana. A short walk from the tube station 'Sol' or 'Tirso de Molina'

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