The museum of the Slovak National Uprising is a very haunting and moving record of a particularly brave time, put down mercilessly and brutally during late 1944. Banska Bystrica is an attractive town, liberated on March 26 1945, and has decent food, cheap hotels, and excellent beer, and a number of attractions both near and in surrounding communities. Strongly recommended. Just off the main square, through the arch, and turn left past the aeroplanes and military equipment.

Bargain your hotel rates locally, rather than booking in advance. Passable German helps, though some English is spoken.

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Only twenty minutes on the train, the extraordinary royal salt mine just outside Krakow is a memorable trip underground, and contains some extraordinary salt carvings by miners, and a large chapel/church entirely hewn from salt. An absolute "must" if you ever visit Krakow, southern Poland.

Twenty minute local ride from Krakow main station. Also bus access. Regular services both ways.

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