Despite the bi-lingual menu and proximity to Lisbon's premier roundabout, this isn't tourist food - our fellow diners are ageing tango-partners and Benfica FC's faithful, fortifying themselves for the night to come. A poached egg floats on a raft of toast, in a broth teeming with scallions. Rupture it and watch the yolk form into little pebbles, bumping against globes of olive oil. Salt cod is muscular and tarry from the overhead grill, the vegetables glinting in garlic butter. As a 'Padaria' or bakery by day, dessert can be chosen from the luminous cases of pastries and sponges around the bar.
244 Avenida de Liberdade, Lisbon
Metro Station: Marques de Pombal
Google map: bit.ly/Lcl3Fj
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