http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33376 It’s worth saying that, despite the name of the club, the music on offer is not all jazz!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33376 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33375 Moqattam is home to a large Coptic Christian community who collect the city’s rubbish and sort it by hand for recycling. There are various charity projects running in the area to help this marginalised community make a fair living. The Association for the Protection of the Environment (APE) is one of them, and they can organise visits into the area to see the church and their workshops where they produce recycled paper and cloth goods.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33375 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33374 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33374 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32959 If you are out and about exploring in Cairo and want a quick, cheap and filling meal then Egyptian fast food is the way to go.
Cheap, simple dishes that are popular are ‘koshary’ (with its layers of rice, macaroni, pasta and lentils this is a carb-overload, but very filling and served with a little tomato sauce and with lemon and spicey sauce on the side) and ‘shawerma’ (marinated kebab meat served in a wrap or roll). You should also try falafel (‘tameya’), stuffed vegetables (‘mashi’) and 'fuul' (fava beans) which are often served in round flat bread ('aish baladi').
Arzak and Gad are both chains of Egyptian fast food restaurants. There are branches of both all over Cairo and they serve Egyptian fast food (and 'traditional' fast food of burgers and fries if you're feeling less adventurous).
Most restaurants will have a counter where you place your order, pay and are given a receipt. Take this receipt over to the serving counter to pick up your food. Some branches will also have a second 'back' room with table service, AC and bathrooms.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32959 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32958 Starters that you should look out for include dips like babaganough (aubergine) and tahina (sesame) which will come with the round Egyptian flatbread known as ‘aish baladi’ (in many places this will arrive steaming to your table as it is probably cooked on site). You should also try falafel (‘tameya’) and stuffed vegetables (‘mashi’).
A classic main you might try is ‘molokheya’, which is a broth made with greens that is often served with a meat and rice. Many places will serve a range of grills including ‘shish tawook’ (chicken), ‘shish kebab’ (lamb) and ‘kofta’ (minced meat on a skewer).
Cheap, simple dishes that are popular are ‘koshary’ (with its layers of rice, macaroni, pasta and lentils this is a carb-overload, but very filling and served with a little tomato sauce and with lemon and spicey sauce on the side) and ‘shawerma’ (marinated kebab meat served in a wrap or roll).

For dessert you might try ‘om ali’ which is pudding rice, bread and raisins in sweetened milk.

If you're visiting the Khan El Khalili you'll be hounded to visit one of the many cafes on the main square, but venture in and you'll find the Khan El Khalili Restaurant (and Naguib Mahfouz Cafe). This is an excellent restaurant with attentive service and good food. A real haven from the hustle and hassle outside. They accept credit cards (a rarity in Egypt), and in the cafe area musicians play traditional music.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32958 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32957 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32957 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32343 Their productions include pyrotechnics, singing, cantilevers, acrobatics, lights, silhouettes, music, video and dual language performances; a sensory experience that cannot be matched.
See them in their home country, Germany, or catch them on tour. But see them you must!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32343 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32199 The books closes with a stanza from a most beautiful poem; Ithaka by C.V Cavafy. The poem describes how the journey and adventures on the way to Ithaka, are more important than any destination. A great motto for anyone who loves travel, and one that inspired my husband and I to choose it as a reading at our wedding.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32199 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/29144 The Gellert Baths though are revered by many and their grandeur means they are the most iconic in the city. The image that stands out for me though is not the still blue waters flagged by magnificent pillars, but that of the outdoor pool and it's wave machine.
The turbines that drive this gear up every hour and their force is one unrivaled in any "no bombing, no ducking" swimming pool. A classic example of their power was seen in Micheal Palin's New Europe series when he is standing in the shallows of the pool doing a piece to camera and he is literally floored by the wave that comes his way. You barely have enough time to stand up before the next wave comes crashing in. Great fun!
Where the Gellert Baths rule supreme though is in mid-August when thousands of people descend on Budapest to enjoy the Sziget Festival. This isn't a weekend affair, but a week of camping on Sziget Island in the middle of the Danube and enjoying music and entertainment on twenty stages. Festival-goers might be able to get away with not showering for a few days, but when you're camping for a week and the shower queues as they always are at festivals, the Gellert is the best way to spend your day before the bands start.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/29144 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28561 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28561 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27760
Walk slowly along the street and allow your eyes to pause inside each doorway. You will see each booth is adorned with beautiful hand-sewn furnishings which range in size from huga wall hangings to cushion covers. Some show donkeys, birds or fish (or the obligatory pyramid and camel/sphinx scene), but most are geometric designs or stunning stylised calligraphy. In many of the shops you will also find men sewing these intricate designs while they wait to welcome their next customer, whether they are buying or browsing.

Less than half the shops here sell tents now, but these are easy to spot as they have miniature versions of their tents out on display on the street. They seem to come in all different shapes and sizes but all beautifully decorated with the brightly coloured and patterned "Ramadan" material that you can also buy by the meter here. Make sure that you take a left through a passage way just a few meters before the roofed area ends, as this will take you into a large courtyard where the largest tents are erected and shown.

The model tents are perfect presents for kids, especially as they come with a camel toy, but if you have space in your luggage you can really treat them with their own 1m square Bedouin tent that comes with light wooden poles. Grown ups with a lot of luggage space and a large garden might even buy the full-size version!

A significant part of the fun of visiting the tentmakers market is the walk there from Midan Hussein. It's just so refreshing to be able to leave the tourist hub-bub behind and explore "real" Egypt. As you get further from the Khan El Khalili the shops are selling less tourist souvenirs, you get less hassle from the sellers and you start to see the city and its wonderful people.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27760 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27588 Diver's House is a really friendly pension that is in the southern part of the town which is far quieter than the northern end which is starting to get "touristy". You can get a double room, but many are triples or sleep four people. The acommodation is basic but you're not there to spend time in your room as you can just walk out onto their sun terrace or that of the Jasmine Restaurant (and Pension) which is opposite. Both have stunning views of the Gulf of Acqaba and the staff there will get your drinks and keep the tab going all day without hassling you to buy more or move on. The bedouine cushion seating there makes it very easy to stay all day!
If you do manage to prise yourself from this laid back cafe the diving instructors and guides with Diver's House are well qualified and friendly. You can though just rent a mask, snorkle and some fins cheaply from any of the stalls along the road and snorkle on the coral reef which runs directly infront of the cafe.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27588 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22482 You don't get to see every band that plays, but the banter behind the bar is always good fun and you get to see more bands than you would working in your local. See if a charity you support is part of WBC and get invovled!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22482 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21248 A good rule of thumb is about 1LE for each minute of your journey. We've been living here for four months now and haven't been shouted at by irate taxi drivers since using this rough rule.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21248 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21247 The Eastern end starts with clothes and material (some lovely scarves here), then there are a few streets with spices (far, far cheaper than Cairo!) and then the fresh fish, fruit and vegetables take over.
Best buys are loofas, dried Hibiscus, dates and Halva.
It's relatively easy to find your way home as well; as turning off the main street will take you to the Corniche and a taxi will never be too far away.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21247 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21246 At Pompey's Piller make sure you walk to the far corner of the site, as otherwise you will miss Cleopatra's Library which is an underground shrine dug almost underneath the Pillar itself.
At the Catacombs it is tempting to just stick to the duckboards, but you are allowed to wander off these and explore on your own - do it! The main attraction here though is the brilliant stonework that mix ancient Egyptian iconography with Roman images.
The sites are in a poor neighbourhood. Everyone is very friendly, but if this is your first time exploring on your own, the poverty might be a shock.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21246 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5913 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5913