Tucked away in a back street near the Fondamente Nove is the best pasticceria in Venice, and one of the most mouth-watering window displays I've ever seen. Chestnuts dipped in chocolate, 'budini' (little rice and egg custard cakes), castagnaccio (chestnut cake), all kinds of chocolate sweets, and at reasonable prices. The owner, Roberto Puppa, tries to create the most authentic, traditional Venetian recipes - ask for advice and recipes. And you can get a cup of coffee, too.

Follow Rio tera SS Apostoli, heading towards the Gesuiti church

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This marvellous monastery is tucked away in the back streets and has the calmest and prettiest cloister in Rome, a fine church with good mosaics, and a massive fortress tower above the entrance. Definitely a place to relax if you've seen too many sights in a morning.

Oh yes, it also has the most superb little mosaic chapel - ask one of the friendly nuns.

Up Via dei Quercetti from the main drag of Via S Giovanni in Laterano

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