This little town on a beautiful island off the coast of Salvador is a must. No cars. The taxis for luggage only are wheelbarrows.
Connected to Salvador by catamaran service or by small prop plane (max 12Kg weight limit). The beaches are fabulous. The second beach is full of bars, surfers and chilled beach goers who like to party late into the night. I'd recommend taking a pousada on the third beach. The bars along here serve excellent caipirinha at about R$2!
In the centre of town you can find food to suit all tastes and budgets along the sandy main street. Be fluid with onward travel plans - you may just add a few days to your stay here on this lovely island getaway!
Morro de São Paulo
Tinharé Island - Bahia
Info: www.morrodesaopaulo.com.br
After a hard day swimming, drinking caipirinhas and watching the beautiful people, come off the gay area of Ipanema beach and head directly up Farme de Amoeda to the Bofetada.
This is a little historic bar that's great for people watching and enjoying an ice cold beer. No need to dress up. Just turn up in your trunks like the local boys do!
Rua Farme de Amoeda
Ipanema
Take care when arriving in Rio for the first time at the main bus terminal.
Don't just take a taxi from outside, even if it looks like you're at an official taxi rank. You may end up with a driver and a mate in the front which can be very intimidating not least when you have to hand over much more cash than you need to on arrival at your destination.
Book a transfer in advance or at least see a taxi company in the bus terminal and more or less agree a fare before catching one of their cabs. You may be slightly overcharged but won't feel so vulnerable.
Try to make sure that you have notes in small denominations when it comes to paying. Rio taxi drivers are notorious for their slight of hand (example: for a R$25 fare you give them a R$50 note and they show you a R$20 note and try to make out you made a mistake).
Finally, when in the bus terminal, keep a good eye on your belongings.
If you want a lazy lunch in beautiful surroundings then this is the place for you. Eat in the tented covered gardens whilst enjoying wonderful caipirinhas then if you like, buy the table and chairs you have been sitting at and on. Every piece of furniture and artwork at the restaurant is for sale. Inside there is a well stocked wine cellar. The staff are very friendly and know their food and drink.
Rua Minas Gerais, 112
Higienopolis
T: 3258.6093
W: restauranteviralata.com.br
Fantastic restaurant/bistro in the heart of the Jardims district with a well being centre upstairs. They serve modern Brazilian and International dishes that are really well put together. Both inside and outside spaces for eating. Start off with a very reasonable "Chandon" - the Brazilian champagne! Yum!
Rua Pardre Joao Manuel, 950.
T: 3082.5709
E: boa@boabistro.com.br
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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last submitted a tip on 7 March 2007
first submitted a tip on 9 February 2007
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