A 1930's themed Hostel on Mazowiecka just off Al. J Slowackiego. The double and dorm rooms are all named after classic actresses, the breakfast is simple, but free, as is the internet. Rooms are also simple, but the bathrooms are impeccable with free laundry facilities.
Not many rooms though, so it's advisable to book ahead in high-season.

Mazowiecka, a 10 minute walk north west of the old town.
www.hosteldeco.com

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An old school was converted by the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, into a torture and extermination camp. What remains are preserved holding cells, along with stories and pictures of the victims. Couple this with a visit to Choeung Ek, the burial place for the victims. Breakfast is probably best avoided.

Let a tuk-tuk or moto taxi driver take you to the two sites for around $5 per person. Toul Sleng is in the city centre, but Choeung Ek is miles out along hellish roads

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One of Phnom Penh's better market complexes. Set around a run-down 1930's art-deco building, it has cheap bags, t-shirts, random souvenirs and food on sale; it's a great place to test out your bargaining skills.

Located near the Central Bus Station, you can't really miss it. Every taxi driver knows the location. Phsar Thmey is the Khmer name.

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A cosy, friendly place on the edge of Boeung Kak Lake, pushed right to the end of a dirt road crammed full of backpacker's bars, restaurants and guesthouses. The perfect place to wind down after a hectic day's motorcycle taxiing, taking in the sunset from the veranda whilst chatting about travel, beer and home with other backpackers who seem to have been housed up here for their whole lives.

On the edge of Boeung Kak lake, to the north of the train station. Follow the path left as you come to the Mosque and keep going until you can't go any further.

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A street lined with cheap eats. One place worth mentioning is the open shop with bowls of curry and random stir-frys on show and a few tables set out in front. Everything is cheap, and everything is good. Try the potato and chicken curry at 30 - 50 baht a plate.

Thanon Rambutri just behind Khao San, up past the police station.

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A smallish Chinese-looking building from the exterior, with two floors overlooking a stage area where local Reggae and Blues bands play almost nightly. A great place to relax to some Marley and stick your name up on the blackboard for a game of pool.

Th. Rangsiyanon Keep walking out of town past the police station and it'll be on your left, covered in fairy lights.

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Let's face it, Khao San is a 'farang' magnet. Everyone ends up there at some point. Grab a Singha beer from the 7/11 about half-way down the road, pull up a chair at one of the few patio-style tables on the pavement and do some of the best people-watching to be had in Thailand.

Banglamphu Neighbourhood. Just listen for Jack Johnson asking 'Where'd all the good people go?'

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A funky, chilled out bar/restaurant along the jazzy Southbank. The waiters and waitresses drift around clad in uniforms of black, white and tattoos. Great people-watching views from the balcony and a varied and cheap menu to boot.

1st floor, Western end Southgate Phone: 9696 0111 Station: Flinder's St. 7am - 1am

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A superb up-market restaurant in the similarly superb Hotel Rialto.
The ambience is perfect; walk in to be greeted by efficient, courteous waiters to a background of soft jazz music with fresh flowers (replaced daily by an appologetic florist who obviously thinks his day-old lilacs are an awful sight to any curious-eyed diner).
The menu is a meat-lover's dream, and even if you're not, there is enough to make you want to order many more than 3 courses, and for around £12 per dish, you can afford to indulge a little in a restaurant you are most likely never to experience again.

Hotel Rialto on ul. Wilcza.
Central Train Station.
06:30-22:30

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A boutique 5* hotel, centrally located, around 5 minutes away from the Centralna railway station. This old townhouse now features a cigar room complete with dvd and cd library, a fitness suite, sauna, plunge pool and steam room. Each art deco or nouveau bedroom has its own flatscreen TV, cd player, dvd player, wireless internet access, antique furniture, marbled and tiled bathroom with 'rainforest' style shower and all are, of course, fully air conditioned. The doors are massive, the service excellent and the rooms impeccable. This will be one of the few times you can experience such luxury so cheaply.

Street name: Wilcza (follow road down away from the central train station and Marriott Hotel towards the Warsaw Polytech.)
www.hotelrialto.com.pl

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Music and theatre festival in the northern city of Gdynia, this year featuring Sigur Ros, Pharrell Williams, Kanye West, Groove Armada, Manu Chao and many more. Weekend tickets are a mere 249 PLN (around £50) which includes camping, if you reserve your spot.
Takes place July 6-8 2006.

Gdynia, Lotnisko Babie Doly (that's the airport).

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It's a motorised bicycle. You should rent one because they're cheap, and the terrain is hellish for bicycles, especially the further afield springs and waterfalls. Be careful though as Thailand's roads are awful, although this far into the hills, you don't have much other traffic to worry about. Lessons are available. Bikes are 150 - 300 baht per day.

MS Motorcycle Rent near Thom Pai Elephant Camp Tours Office

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By the river, this old rustic Guesthouse offers basic and comfortable rooms with nice little relaxation areas where you can jump into a hammock and read a book from one of the many shelves or have a chat with the polite and friendly staff. Rooms 150 - 300 baht.

On the river, just off Th. Ratchadamnoen. Phone: 0 5369 81167

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The cheapest place I found to stay (and trust me, I looked). It's 80 baht a night for a bed in a very dark and noisy dorm. The staff are friendly and offer the best prices on tours and transport. Just watch out for the low ceiling fans. I'm 6'3'' and almost lost a digit on two occasions.

Th. Chakraphong (near The Connection Travellers and over the road from the Airport Shuttle Bus Stop)

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