This elaborately decorated, art nouveau (modernista in Catalan) concert hall is an absolute must see. It's exciting enough looking at it outside, but the whole of the inside is exhilarating with a riot of sparkling stained glass and swirling forms. There’s a huge expression of colour and light, especially in the auditorium itself with its stunning, golden-brown, stained-glass ceiling - a highlight in every sense. Guided tours only, some in English, last just under an hour, and it's best to book in advance. Don't be put off - this is really one to remember.

Calle Sant Francesc de Paula, 2; tel: 902 442 882; nearest metro: Urquinaona

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Can't decide what to eat in this gourmet city? Try Txapela, a busy taberna in the heart of Barcelona offering a varied selection of exquisitely presented, succulent, tiny bites, displayed around the semicircular bar. The tablemat placed in front of you gives each a Basque name, a number and a description in Catalan with photo and price and you just give the number or point.

Demand is incessant, so everything is freshly prepared. Try Arantxa - a small brochette of prawns, bacon and mushrooms; or Gros - a mini-entrecote with Roquefort sauce; or any of the other 49 on offer. Since most cost 1.10 euros and the dearest 1.65, the only difficulty is choosing which to have next. Great Spanish wines and ice-cold beers, too. The bar is large, the welcome enthusiastic, the atmosphere convivial and the experience memorable.

Passeig de Gracia 8-10; tel: 93 412 02 89;
nearest metros: Cataluna, Passeig de Gracia;
www.txapela.angrup.com/english/index.htm

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Victor Hugo's home in Paris. Poet, playwright but also painter, designer and powerful and popular politician. All reflected in this furnished apartment; it's fascinating for those who know little about the man and his times, magic for those who do.

Place des Vosges, 6. 4th Arrond.
Metros: Chemin Vert, Bastille, St Paul.

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Sip a glass of Sancerre on the outdoor terrace at the top of the Pompidou Centre (you don't have to eat in the restaurant) and enjoy a plate of plump olives while you admire one of the best views in and of Paris.

Centre Goerge Pompidou 4th Arrond.
Metro: Hotel de Ville or Rambuteau

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Dine in the open under the stars in this former drapers shop. The sliding roof is almost as good as that in the Millennium stadium, and the very French and inexpensive food isn't half bad too.

51, rue du Commerce, 15th arrond. Paris. Metro: Emile Zola

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