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Vic's on Vicolo della Torretta offers fast, sustaining lunches (soups, salads and excellent-value wines); Gino in Vicolo Rosini serves spaghetti alla vongole and coniglio al vino bianco with such zing the local MPs are willing to queue; and neighbouring bars Vitti and Ciampini in Piazza Lorenzo in Lucina (an elegant, airy space) are wonderful for an al fresco drink even in winter - they thoughtfully provide outdoor heaters.

Afterwards, wander back up the Corso and across the grand expanse of Piazza del Popolo to Santa Maria del Popolo, its shadowy interior magicked into life by Pinturicchio, Raphael, Bernini and Caravaggio - and then up to the Villa Borghese and the Pincio for the classic, breathtaking view of domes and spires.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4211