Call me perverse but I'm not going to recommend the Tuscany of 'rolling green hills, loan cypresses...' etc etc (ie Chianti). Head north, rather than south when you leave Pisa airport and you come, via the spa town of Bagni di Lucca, to the Garfagnana. This is considerably more rugged and mountainous than southern Tuscany, you are still within reach of the beach, there is skiing up at Abetone, large bits of the Garfagnana are Nature Reserves (Parco della Orecchiella is a must), it's fantastic country for walkers and hikers. We're talking ancient chestnut forests, alpine meadows, caves, spectacular ridges, roaring streams and little mountaintop hamlets that seem to grow from the stone of the hillside. Must sees (there's a list at www.knowital.com/html/lucca_-_the_garfagnana__3_.html include the Caves of the Wind (Grotta del Vento), the Devils Bridge near Bagni di Lucca, the sunken village at Vagli and the sanctuary and museum at San Pellegrino in Alpe.

www.knowital.com/index/listing/garfag/
Trains go into Bagni di Lucca

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Okay, I'm going to be totally perverse here by suggesting a place that isn't in Sicily. Vulcano is actually one of the Aeolian Islands just north of Sicily (others include Stromboli and Lipari) and is quite unlike anywhere else I've visited. The name's a bit of a giveaway (Vulcano/volcano geddit), as these islands are all volcanic (and there's Etna on mainland Sicily of course. Vulcano itself has (apparently) Italy's largest 'non submarine' volcanoes, there are little 'fumaroles' spouting steam, the beach has black sand - unbelievable - and there are thermal spas and mud baths. A bit like Iceland with hot weather we reckoned. Stayed at a very nice modern hotel on the Gulf of Ponente.

www.ahotelinitaly.com/hotel-conti-vulcano/

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