This charmingly old-fashioned, friendly but eccentric hotel is very reasonably priced. It is perfectly situated on the banks of the Po, about 10 minutes walk from the Tower, but far enough away from the thronging tourists. You can hire bicycles from the hotel and there is a pretty roof terrace.

12 Lungarno Pacinotti; Tel: 940 111; Nearest station: Pisa; www.royalvictoria.it/

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In winter, Aarhus' municipal ice rink opens on the park in front of the Musikhuset concert hall. Skating is free, skate for as long as you like - just hire skates at the hut for a nominal charge and leave a secure document such as a driving license. There are no lockers, but, being Denmark, everyone leaves their bags piled around the side of the rink. You get the feeling that it hasn't occurred to anyone to nick anything.

Thomas Jensens Alle, Aarhus.

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