Charles Royal runs these tours and he enthusiastically showed us the numerous wild plants that are edible on the island. He explained that the Kawakawa tree, Maori Bush Basil or Maori Pepper have many uses and gave us little sachets of the crushed, prepared leaves he said we could use to spice up many dishes. Charles told us there are seven edible varieties of ferns and pointed out the Hen and Chickens fern, which is surprisingly soft and sweet to the taste.

When we'd done exploring and sampling, he took us back down to Hinemoa's pool, where we sat dabbling our feet in the warmth as he produced on a camping stove, like a magician bringing a rabbit out of a hat, a selection of quick-cook courses, made with some of the herbs and ferns he'd just shown us.

It's an amazing experience of a Maori tradition and way of existing with the land that is truly wonderful.

Charles Royal, Kinaki NZ, PO Box 1030, Rotorua, Aotearoa, New Zealand. 0064 7 345 3122, www.maorifood.com

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Mollies is an amazingly affordable (thanks to the fabulous current exchange rate) luxury hotel.

Our suite ($495 per night B&B [£165 approx], doubles same price), had a mezzanine lounge, and whether sitting on the expansive, comfy corner sofa or at the mosaic terrace table, the harbour across to Chelsea Bay and around the North Shore stretches across the vista. It's a sailor's dream.

Alongside period elegance and modern charm, there's unlimited internet access in the guest library, live opera/ musical performances before dinner, and extreme thought, care and attention put into everything.

It's like stepping into someone's comfortable family home, with extra touches. At night, staff come in and turn the bed down for you, put out your nightgown and slippers, leave lights on for you and light the fire if needed, and leave gifts - scented soaps and night moisturisers beautifully wrapped - for your evening comfort. Food is exquisite and the wine cellar world-class.

Mollies, in short, is faultless.

Mollies, 6 Tweed Street, St Mary's Bay, Auckland, 0064 (0)9 376 3489

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Started in Nov 2003, Susan McLeary's walking food tours of Wellington, Greytown and Martinborough are a tasty experience, whether you're a gourmet or just a foodie on tour.

On the Wellington Walking Gourmet tour, we sampled minced lamb kaftas and had a behind-the-scenes look at the kitchens in Meat on Tory, and took a choc taste test at Schoc Chocolate Therapy (the Earl Grey with dark choc was a pleasant surprise).

We tasted freshly-roasted flat white coffees at Mojo Coffee Cartel - coffee is big business in Wellington - enjoyed the variety of produce at Moore Wilson Fresh's food hall, and rounded the four-hour tour off with an excellent lunch at one of Wellington's best eateries, Logan-Brown.

Excellent value at $210 (just £70) per head.

Susan McLeary, Zest Food Tours, PO Box 6030, Wellington 6141, New Zealand, 0064 4 801 9198, www.zestfoodtours.co.nz

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