The toy/mountain train from Siliguri to Darjeeling is surely one of the great railway journeys of the world. But, unless you're a real rail enthusiast, nine hours on an uncomfortable train, which travels at less than walking pace, is a little bit too long.

We got a jeep up the mountain from Siliguri to Darjeeling, which cost about 300 Rupees (£4) each. The share jeeps are very regular and, although they're pretty crowded, are way more comfortable than the train.

You can then take the highest altitude part of the great rail journey from Darjeeling to Ghoom, to visit the famous Ghoom monastery. It takes about 45 minutes and is probably more romantic and comfortable than doing the hard 9 hour slog from Siliguri.

Just make sure you book the train on your first day of arrival in Darjeeling. You can't book the train from anywhere else and there is a fair wait for tickets (a few days). There is plenty to do in Darjeeling in the meantime, including the Everest museum, one of the better Indian zoos, Glenary's cafe and lots of trail walking and shopping.

Don't even bother with the tourist ride unless you've money to waste, it's a complete rip-off compared to the Ghoom trip - about 10 times the price.

Nathmulls in Darjeeling has to be the best tea shop in the world. Really helpful staff and a great range of teas to test (local of course!). Well worth a visit when you're up in the mountains.

Get to Siliguri train station, then ask a cycle rickshaw to take you to where the jeeps go from. Then just climb in a jeep and wait for it to fill up.

Nathmulls is in Rink Mall, Darjeeling, next to Cafe Coffee Day.

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

Indian flights are very cheap and it's tempting. But if you have the time and the patience, Indian trains reward like no other journey.
The Indian train is a travelling village in itself. You will be sold to constantly. Some things you will want - chai in the moring, samosa in the evening - and some things you will not.

Despite the bad image of India as a hard-sell place, there's no obligation to buy and the seller will move on if you are not interested. The good bit is, you can do all your shopping in one journey, from bajee to clothing.
The trains are more than a kilometre long (which is truely awesome in itself), and are a lifeline to many Indians. And far more eco-friendly than flying.

www.indianrail.gov.in/

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

The places by the lake are backpackery, obsessed with drugs and Angkor beer. OK for a chilled-out day drinking and watching the lake, but paper-thin walls and minimal security did not make me feel safe.

I certainly wouldn't recommend it to lone women. If anything goes wrong (and it did with me) you will have absolutely no help whatsoever.

Capitol Guesthouse looks awful from the outside but on the inside it's scrupulously clean, has cable TV, private bathroom, air conditioning, good security (proper walls!) and all for about $8-10.

It also runs buses to Ho Chi Minh City, Siem Reap etc so it's very well located. You'll get off the backpackers trail just that little bit and experience much better levels of comfort, security and hygiene. And it's just round the corner from possibly one of the best and friendliest restaurants in Cambodia - Mama's.

Several locations across Phnom Penh. Well known - ask any moto driver. If you get the bus from HCMC or Siem Reap, chances are you'll be dropped off right outside!

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

What a fantastic booklet. It gives so much information about making the most of your holiday and doing something worthwhile.

We did loads of the stuff recommended in it and it helped us meet local people and ensure that our money was going to worthwhile places.

For example: teaching locals to read English (Brother Mouse in Luang Prabang - fantastic place!).

If you fancy a massage, go to the Red Cross in Luang Prabang. It's not luxury - none of your scented candles here - but a great massage and all the money goes to the Red Cross. The brave can even donate blood.

Stay Another Day Laos is available in guesthouses, travel agents, bars, restaurants - all over the place.

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

Thai cookery - been there done that? Why not try Lao? Different enough from Thai to feel like a real adventure.
Great Lao guys teaching you to cook Lao food! $25 for the day, go to the market in the morning, cook all day then eat what you've prepared (washed down with a Beer - Lao of course!)

I thought it was one of the best value things we did in Laos. We cooked chicken laap (salad), coconut curry and jeow (chilli jam-paste-type thing) which required 50 chillis for a 2-person serving!
And can absolutely agree with the tip about the Tamarind Cafe. We ate the 'beer snacks' there and came back for more pretty quickly! Carolyn was fantastic and really helped with finding a cookery course. They do pretty advanced stuff at their school (and we are amateurs!) so she recommended Three Elephants.

It's advertised all over the place - you can't miss it. If you do, enquire in the Three Elephants Cafe or Tamarind cafe. Have some beer snacks while you're there!

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

Stay on the opposite side of the river to Hampi Bazaar. The accommodation is better value (you may even get a swimming pool if you're lucky!), cleaner and quieter than in Hampi Bazaar. There are some lovely places, some with circular rooms and beds, some cottage-style rooms. We paid about Rs350 (£4-ish) for a double. We could see women working in the paddy fields while we had our breakfast, whereas in our place in Hampi Bazaar we were regularly woken by shouting and hollering.
You need to get a coracle back and forth to access Hampi Bazaar (and the bulk of the famous ruins) and they do stop at about 10pm - but there's plenty going on over that side of town, films, etc, and you can even get alcohol there. (It's prohibited in Hampi Bazaar for some reason).
We took a bicycle out and explored that side of the river (way past the Hunamyan Temple!) and had one of the nicest experiences of rural India in our whole 5 months there. My partner had little kids pushing and pulling his bike along for most of the way from village to village. There really were very few non-Indians who ventured in that direction. We were a bit of a novelty to say the least!
There's at least 10 guest houses over that side - all budget at around Rs300-400.

Go to Hospet station. If you arrive during the day, get the bus to Hampi Bazaar (the taxis all know you're giong in that direction and charge a fortune. I think the bus was Rs30 (40p). You then need to find the river and take a boat across (Rs50 if I recall correctly).

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends