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    Gruinard Bay

    Posted by chapmanbillie 16 May 2007

    If you go to the beach at Gruinard Bay, a glorious drive south from Ullapool past Corrieshalloch Gorge and the mighty Falls of Measach, take a stroll up the wee hill to the south: you get a glorious view of the entire bay, gently ringed by pebbles, grass and rock, with mighty mountains all around.

    I stood there and thought if I’m ever going to get married I’m doing it round here. I did.

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    If you’re in Ullapool, drive north to Cape Adventure for some seakayaking around some delightful coastal bays ringed by knuckles of rock, all in the shadow of Ben Stack – said to be the inspiration for Tolkien’s Mountain of Doom. Driving there through Sutherland is staggering.

    www.capeventure.co.uk

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    Stac Polly, nr Ullapool

    Posted by chapmanbillie 16 May 2007

    Great climb just north of Ullapool, short and pretty easy. It’s an extraordinary hill, all spiky and eroded, offering fabulous views right up Assynt, with its shapely lochs hemmed in by gorgeous mountains.

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    Ladhar Bheinn, Knoydart

    Posted by chapmanbillie 16 May 2007

    The most thrilling way to do Knoydart, Britain’s last wilderness and unreachable by road, is to take a speedboat (seafari.co.uk) from Mallaig into Loch Hourn (Loch Hell!). It can’t dock anywhere so you just leap off onto shoreline rocks. Hike up Ladhar Bheinn, arguably the finest mountain on the mainland, with staggering views over the “rough bounds”. Descend southwards to Inverie and hit the legendary and often riotous Old Forge for a heather ale and a smokehouse platter. Anyone who sneers at Scottish food hasn’t eaten here. Had one of the best weekends of my life here. Dorms at the nearby Bunkhouse, £14 per person.

    www.seafari.co.uk

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    Aonoch Eagach

    Posted by chapmanbillie 16 May 2007

    The Aonoch Eagach in Glen Coe is one of the world’s finest ridge walks. Do it before you die. If you’re fit, good with heights and aren’t put off by a stretch called the Crazy Pinnacles, you’ll be fine. There’s some climbing but you don’t need ropes.

    We did it on a clear summer’s night and stood speechless on a peak, able to see up past Ben Nevis and right out to the Hebrides, mountains everywhere and us above them. A pint in the Clachaig Inn afterwards is compulsory.

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    Isleornsay, Skye

    Posted by chapmanbillie 16 May 2007

    A beautiful village in Sleat, the garden of Skye, boasting an art gallery, a lively pub, a whisky shop, and a lighthouse that seems to have been painted on by Monet.

    We took a boat to Eigg and got followed by a whale that stuck its head out of the water to see us better. The next day we caught 12 mackerel while boating in the sound and had them with mussels bought from a local fisherman. Just ask in the pub.

    Also: you must go roamin’ in the gloamin’ on the Old Man of Storr, further north.

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    The Longhouse at Tokavaig on Skye was pretty quickly like home from home, only we felt a million miles from anywhere, which was exactly what we were hoping for.

    The decking, set to look out over Loch Slapin, is perfect for lounging about and admiring the
    Cuillin mountain range - what an outlook, especially with a dram or two.

    The walk to the shore is recommended. We saw an otter and, to the delight of our teenage girls, you can actually get a signal on your mobile if you scramble to the top of the castle ruins!

    www.skyelonghouse.com

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