Don't just admire the stunning Rangitoto in the middle of the harbour - paddle there! A guided round trip takes 6 hours including a climb to the summit for great views of the city and harbour. For extra credibility try the evening option. It was amazing paddling back across the harbour in the dark, just a row of little lights bobbing across the silent water with the city around us. Fantastic.

Guided tours with Fergs Kayaks depart Okahu Bay on Tamaki Drive;
tel: 09 529 2230; www.fergskayaks.co.nz

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Head to one of the classic longstanding cafes on Ponsonby Road - good options include Bambina, SPQR or Dizengoff. Order a flat white and discover why millions of Kiwis and Aussies are devoted to it. Steering clear of the excess milk of the latte and shunning the fluffy froth of the cappucino, it's an altogether more serious milk coffee. Order a double flat white (extra shot) and you'll never want your coffee made any other way again.

Find loads of cafes (along with bars and shops) on the excellent interactive website www.ponsonbyroad.co.nz.

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