Travelling west, start at the Druid, a fine village local with keen young hosts, well-kept ale, good food. Move on to Tynllidiart Arms for more good beer (some brewed on site in world's smallest commercial brewery), longer menu but without compromising quality. Finish in Aberystwyth at Ship & Castle - no food at all, just constantly changing range of tiptop beers in buzzing streetcorner alehouse with trad music Wednesdays.

Three excellent but contrasting pubs, all linked by a daytime bus route.

Druid Inn, Goginan (01970-880650)
Tynllidiart Arms, Capel Bangor (01970-880248)
Ship & Castle, 1 High Street, Aberystwyth (no phone)

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