Sawanoya Ryokan is a family-run budget ryokan/hotel in the Shitamachi area of Tokyo, near Ueno Park. Single rooms are available, at around 5,000 yen per night, double rooms at under 10,000 yen. It's a ryokan, so you sleep on a futon on the floor, and in most cases the bath and toilets are shared. (There are a couple of en suite double rooms.) This is where I always stayed in Tokyo before moving here; it's a budget place but there is absolutely nothing wrong with it; it's clean, the food is good, the location is convenient, and the owners are friendly and speak enough English to communicate. There are also some nice touches, like the wooden trays that breakfast comes on, that give it a bit more class.

www.sawanoya.com/ Address: 2-3-11,Yanaka,Taito-Ku,Tokyo, 110-0001 JAPAN Phone: +81-3-3822-2251 Facsimile: +81-3-3822-2252 E-mail: sawanoya@tctv.ne.jp Metro: Nezu, Chiyoda Line. Within walking distance of JR Ueno Station if you are feeling energetic.

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A park in the centre of Tokyo, the former site of Edo Castle and next to the Imperial Palace. It includes a wonderful Japanese garden, is rarely crowded (almost deserted when I went on a glorious Saturday afternoon), and, best of all, admission is free. Note that it is closed on Mondays and national holidays.

1-1 Chiyoda, Chiyoda-ku Metro: Otemachi, Takebashi, or Nijubashi-mae. Within walking distance of JR Tokyo Station.

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