the centre of Sibiu is much prettier than Brasov - wander round the Habsburgian streets and squares and soak in the atmosphere

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a lovely park to stroll in, just beware of all the other people with the same idea and the rollerbladers. Stop off along the way for a beer and some mici at one of the lakeside bars.

north of the centre, various entrances including Piata Charles de Gaulle, Arcul de Triumf, Str. Scoala Herastrau

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the only Thai restaurant in Bucharest with UK and Thai chefs, with a similarly expat pricetag to match. The food is truly delicious though, shame there's no Thai beer though ...

Str. Petre Cretu, near Arcul de Triumf

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A small restaurant/bar hidden away in a lovely old villa, Shoni serves up amazing Transilvanian fare at wooden benches. Great atmosphere, good music, lacking in the "fitosi" variety of young Romanians. It closes for a couple of months during the summer when it moves to the seaside.

str. Sfintii Voievozi, just off Calea Grivitei

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The only decent electronic music festival in Romania, with DJs from Central and Eastern Europe and the UK.

Timisoara, venue changes every year

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walk around the recently pedestrianised historic centre of Bucharest before it is renovated and stumble on little gems of shops, bars, old-school tailors, fur shops etc.

between Universitate and Piata Unirii

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An asian/italian/fusion restaurant where I ate possibly the best chocolate cake of my life : chocolate lava cake. The decor is amazing, music just right, and is the type of place that if it opened in Bucharest would be heart-breakingly expensive, but it's in Budapest so it's not.

Andrassy ut, before the Oktagon

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if you want good Lebanese/Turkish somewhere down-to-earth and without pretentious customers this will do the trick, and cheap too. Eat from formica tables, surrounded by the owners' friends and family, watching Al Jazeera.

just off Bd. Ion Mihalache (1. Mai), on a left-hand side street before Piata Domenii

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This Unesco heritage site features medieval monasteries which are painted on the OUTSIDE.

Remarkably, most of them have kept their colour well, apart from the North Eastern walls which take the brunt of the Siberian winds. A unique shade of blue was used for Voronet monastery, now lending its name to the colour.

You need a car to get around all of them or alternatively, hire a Romanian guide to show you round the area.

Romanian Bukovina.

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