If you visit Copan, take what is in effect the Lenca route, through the old colonial towns of Santa Rosa de Copan, then Gracias a Dios, and then over an unmade up road to Esperanza, travelling through the pine forests, and get in touch with the Spanish element of Honduras history.
Gracias a Dios, Esperanza
Google map: tinyurl.com/39zuwx6
A small site near the better known ruins of Copan, the museum is well worth a visit.
I had the good luck to have the director give me two hours of his time, explaining the Lenca civilisation and the relationship with other Maya sites, but even without him it would have been a wonderful visit.
El Puente is east of Copan on the road to San Pedro Sula.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Puente
Google map: tinyurl.com/358a5fk
A colonial town one hour north of the capital.
A wonderful town centre, slowly being restored, with a church containing a clock once housed in the alhambra and given to the town by the king of Spain.
Forget Antigua in Guatemala. Come here for Holy Week events, coloured sawdust carpets in the streets and a real 'people's' event, no something for tourists.
www.comayagua.org/
Google map: tinyurl.com/34agg4d
We took one look at the restaurant prices in central Masaya and were heading back to the hotel when we found Mariskeria, a permanent kiosk in the Parque octobre 17. Their ceviche was A1 and the prawns a plancha were the best we'd eaten since being in Spain in the 70s. The proprietor let us try a concha negra for free as we'd never eaten it before... more like a clam than an oyster, but we'll include them on our menu next time we visit Masaya.
Parque de octobre 17
Masaya
A spotlessly clean, reasonably priced hotel in the town centre. Nothing is too much trouble for the owners or staff.
It is well sited for exploration of northern Nicaragua by bus and, being in town, means you are not hostage to some over priced so called eco lodge or hotel miles from anywhere and can take full advantage of local restaurants and food stands.
Great little town with superb Sandinista memorial.
Frente Supermercado Matagalpa
Avenida Central
Matagalpa
tel 00 505 772 3140
A family-run affair of two cabinas, simple, but well-equipped and super clean, in the hills one hour from the capital San Jose.
To see the real Costa Rica, not the meretricious zip lines and canopy tours offered by exploitative ex-hippies, stay with Don Freddy and Dona Barbara. He has reasonable English and French, comprehensive knowledge of local wildlife and can show you how real local people live their lives. There is even a frequent bus service if you don't want to drive, as far as the capital for just over one pound each way.
Don't overlook San Jose either. Chaotic it is, but has some interesting backwaters like Barrio Amon; see the areas south of the Central Avenue before they get developed. Great little sodas (cafes) abound and, if you want upmarket, then try the Argentinian restaurant near La Solidad church; a timbale of green apple and prune accompanying a pork fillet in brown beer and honey sauce is worth taking the trip!
Bamboo Inn
1 kilometro al suroeste del cementario (porton verde)
Barrio San Martin
carretera a San Juan
Santiago
Puriscal
San Jose
Costa Rica
e-mail: bamboo_inn_puriscal@yahoo.com
A new air service in summer from Southampton to Angers in the Loire Valley gives easy access to the quiet towns of north Deux Sèvres - a department unknown even in France!
Thouars has a vibrant history, from the Hundred Years War to the age of the steam train, but has now sunk into quiet contemplation of its past. The old town hangs out over the River Thouet, Chateau, chapel and medieval houses all huggermugger in narrow lanes, a bit depressed in parts, but well worth a visit - the view from the ring road heading south will stay with you for ever. From there, visit the valley of the River Argenton, medieval bridges, rock climbing, canoeing and even moto cross lessons for the fearless!
This is real rural France, not the tourist office version.
Thouars, department of Deux Sèvres (79).
From Angers airport, one hour's drive to the southeast.
Connections with TGV from Angers or Tours, via a swish new push me pull you from Saumur on the Loire.
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