After almost three years in Buenos Aires I am pretty much sick of beef and the options for anything else are extremely few and far between. Any food other than red meat is invariably a disappointment no matter how nice the surroundings. So imagine my happiness at discovering a famous Argentine chef's new restaurant just up the road from my house. French trained Paul Jean Azema's restaurant is reasonably priced (although quite expensive by Argentine standards) and the food is fantastic; a mix of French, Indian, US and English and all cooked to perfection. This place is truly a keeper and if it weren't for the fact that i'm leaving BA in a couple of months for Valparaiso in Chile (another amazing place to live or visit) I'd keep my mouth firmly shut and the place to myself. Enjoy...!

Carranza 1875, Palermo Hollywood

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

Smoking was recently banned in all bars, restaurants and enclosed public spaces (bars over 100m2 are allowed a separate smoking area). The law appears to be being upheld and respected, although i'm not sure how as Argentines smoke more than a stereotypical Albanian and are not known for their law abiding-ness.

It has made going out much more bearable, even for someone like me who likes a fag now and again. Before, bars and restaurants were under a pall of smoke and it was common to leave with stinging eyes and stinking clothes. It's the second progressive law to come out of the blue in the last couple of years (gay civil unions being the other). This country never ceases to amaze me, lurching from one extreme to the other. Fantastic.

Everywhere

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

Far and away the best bife de lomo I've had in my three years in Buenos Aires is served in El Trapiche, a huge family-orientated parilla packed every night of the week by locals and tourists alike and which hasn't succumbed to pretentions. I go at least twice a month. Having recently being taken by a friend to Cabana Las Lilas, I can honestly say that El Trapiche not only beats it into submission on the quality of the beef but also in the price.

A proveleta (barbecued cheese), a chorizo (sausage) a shared bife de lomo (one portion is easily big enough for two), a salad, a serving of chips, a decent bottle of Malbec and coffee will come to around 90 pesos (£8 a head) for two. And if you get served by Juan, you'll get the best waiter in town.

Corner of Paraguay and Humbodlt, Palermo Hollywood.

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

A stunning converted mansion with a garden. The food used to be good but they changed the menu in November to some sort of Latin fusion, doubled the price and it's now truly awful. Drinks are good though and the actual building is amazing.

Parana 1048, between Santa fe and Marcelo T de Alvear.

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

A cerveceria (beer house) in Palermo Hollywood with a small range of fantastic real beers, the best in the city. Proper pints, relaxed and not Hollywood pretentious. Recommended.

Corner of Carranza and Gorriti;
tel: 4777 2827

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

Mundo Bizarro has gone seriously downhill in the last year. Gran Bar Danzon is for pathetic wannabe yuppies and expensive ladies of the night. Most bars in Palermo Viejo and Hollywood are all style and no substance and way overpriced to be completely honest. If you find a good one, stick to it.

Mundo Bizarro-Guatemala 4802, Palermo.
Gran Bar Danzon-Liberted y Santa fe, Capital Federal.

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

Every Thursday night is one of the best club nights in town. Fantastic stage show all night, it really kicks off around 3am with the big, fat transvestite dancing show/parade. Quite entertaining. Massive and open drug consumption and gay friendly as well.

Niceto Vega 5510, Palermo.

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

A fun bar with a relaxed atmosphere and board games, very big.

Honduras 5733, Palermo Hollywood
Tel: 11/4772-0845

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends

A genuine art deco masterpiece of a bar. In my 2 years living and working in Buenos Aires, I've yet to find a better looking place to sip a gin and tonic. Expensive by Argentine standards (around £4-6 a drink) it's well worth it once in a while.

Plaza San Martin (at the end of Florida).

I agreeI disagree

1.  
2. Send to friends