These waterfalls are utterly amazing - and if you are going to be anywhere within a couple of hours flying time of Iguazu airport it is definitely a trip that is worth making. Of course, there are scores of really rather comfortable long-distance coaches that also go to Iguazu.
We would strongly recommend (as had been suggested to us by John Fernandes the brilliant host of an excellent small B&B in Puerto Iguazu "The Secret Garden") that you see the Falls from the Brazilian side of the river first; this gives you a slowly unfolding vista of the Falls (80% of which are on the Argentinian side of the river) and the unbelievable picture postcard just gets larger and bigger and wider.
Then later see and experience the Falls from right up close on the Argentinian side of the river. An extraordinary visceral experience. No natural phenomenon anywhere has in any way matched the power and beauty of the Falls.
It's probably best to try to go at towards the end of the day when there will be far fewer people - and, ideally out of the height of the tourist season. October was ideal: neither too hot nor too humid - perfect spring weather.
Remember that dengue fever has re-appeared in the region and use lots of serious insect repellent.
And you will almost certainly get very wet (even if you do not take the boat into/under the Falls) so think about waterproof protection for cameras etc.
On the Brazilian side there is also a good bird park; while on the Argentinian side there are several great walks through the semi-tropical forest.
Before we went to The Secret Garden last month, I was somewhat sceptical as to how anywhere could have elicited so many wholly favourable remarks. But there's absolutely no doubt at all: for us the Secret Garden lived up to every possible expectation.
From the very first moment that John shows you round town and then offers a cooling drink, through the excellent (and seemingly endless) caipirinhas, tapas and snacks in the early evening, to the extremely generous and tasty breakfasts with home-made jams, and the lovely evening conversations with John as a charming host: it is an entirely delightful and special experience.
John's advice on how best to divide your precious time in Iguazu - as well as on restaurants, transport or any other question - can be followed unhesitatingly.
We spent three full days in Iguazu and enjoyed our time enormously. Even the after-effects of a huge tropical storm that wiped out some two-thirds of a precious day was leavened by John's generosity and our fellow guests' company.
The staff who cannot do too much to help, bouncy Roxy the Jack Russell, the chalet room that has everything one could want, the lovely garden ... and, above all, John. Truly a very very special experience.
www.secretgardeniguazu.com/
Los Lapachos 623, Puerto Iguazu N3370JMC, Argentina
+54 3757 423099
Newly opened zoo which tries hard to present itself as ecologically sound and involved in saving species. It's a taxi ride away in the west of Valencia. Children will love being really close to the animals - and it will be even better once the monkeys are there. Rather pricey at € 20/adult.
Take a taxi which will cost under €10.
Close to Plaza de la Virgen down a very quiet alley is this unassuming rather dark restaurant. Excellent food, with a choice of either the €12 lunch of the day or a special Dégustacion menu (which everyone has to choose) for €18. Very good quality modern Valencian cooking.
C / Conquista 3
Tel: 963 910 364
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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