Very centrally located hotel, and great value compared to other four-star places. It has a fab retro Turkish bath (the first ever opened in Argentina), a beautiful lobby, a distinguished history (García Lorca stayed here when he visited Buenos Aires) and delicious breakfasts.

www.castelarhotel.com.ar
Avenida de Mayo 1152

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A chorizo sausage in a bread roll - great street food, and you can pay less than 50p for it.

Lots of small fast food places on Lavalle and Florida

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Buy a Guia Lumi (city plan with all the bus routes listed in the back) and travel by bus - a great way to see the city and almost guaranteed to be more useful than the spidery metro (especially to go to places like La Boca). Watch out for taxis, and follow the tips on the foreign office website, especially for travel from the airport.

All over BA

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Chipa is a Paraguayan snack. If you catch a train to or from the Retiro stations you'll hear loads of people selling it - "chipa, chipa, dos por un peso" - if you get it when it is warm, it is fantastic. And if you get the chance, try chipa guazu too - made with egg and sweetcorn.

Outside Retiro train stations

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