Freshly-caught fried fish, sandwiched between crusty bread, onion optional. Eat it while sitting at infant-sized tables facing the Golden Horn. Costs less than a pound, tastes great.

Get off the tram at Karaköy, turn around with Sultanahmet behind you, cross the road, walk past the fish market and jetty until you come to tables and chairs set out on the grass. Sit down and wait for the server to notice you.

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