It is the city's museum of modern art, heavily featuring Spanish modern artists - Dali, Miro and Picasso, and houses Picasso's Guernika. It's much more manageable than the Prado; the building itself is gorgeous, all white and airy, with a lovely garden in the central quadrangle. It used to be a mental hospital.

The top floor also houses contemporary installations which make the mind boggle. Enough for an hour or two of culture, without feeling obliged to see the rest, or be overwhelmed at the amount of work to see.

My favourite is a preparatory sketch of a bull with mad eyes Picasso made, for Guernika. My first stop whenever I am in town.

Free Saturday afternoons from 2pm.

On the Ronda de Atocha, opposite the Atoha railway station. 15 minute walk south of Plaza Major. Metro - Atocha

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