First by day, and again at night - cheesy and touristy, yes, but utterly breathtaking.

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Buy a slice of pizza and a bottle of wine, then sit on the steps looking down towards the shimmering moonlit cathedral and watch everyone come and go, the couples slow dancing to the string quartets dotted around the bars and restaurants. It's wonderful, and as good as free. Be prepared, however, to fend off approximately 400 rose sellers an hour.

St Mark's square

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You must go, if only to see the Charles and Di exhibit. The museum has moved from its Parnell Square location and will be relocated in the Smithfield area from March 2006 onwards.

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Translates as "At Little Glen's", owned by the guy who set up Bohemia Bagels and the Museum of Communism. Excellent jazz bar at Karmelitska 23 118 00 Prague 1 - Mala Strana, but get there early as it's tiny downstairs & fills up quickly. Highly recommend Rene Trossman on a wednesday night. Word of warning: don't get in the way of the waitress - she's a rottweiller!

Karmelitska 23 118 00 Prague 1 - Mala Strana; www.malyglen.cz/

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Everyone you know who has been to Prague will rave about the beauty of the place. This is indeed correct, architecturally. What no-one will tell you is that you can expect to be treated with downright contempt by about 80 per cent of waiters and shop assistants. Maybe it's a (perfectly reasonable) reaction to the influx of stag and hen parties, maybe it's the default setting of the Czech people, but it certainly ain't nice, however much you try not to take it personally.

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Free live Irish music seven nights a week, then continue the dancing in the downstairs club.

O'Connell Bridge, right on the Liffey; www.arlington.ie/

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Two locations, though I have only tried the one located at Másna 2. In a city of questionable food quality you could do a lot worse than filling up here for breakfast (it may be the only palatable meal you get all day). Huge choice, huge portions, tiny prices. Open 8am - 12pm. Highly recommended

Másna 2; www.bohemiabagel.cz/site/index.html

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Breathtaking - the theatre is a gorgeous confection both inside and out, the performances are great and where better to see Don Giovanni than in the very theatre where it had its 1787 world premiere, conducted by the composer himself.

Estates theatre (the big greeny blue one)

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