A trip back in time: a small shop where two (very) old ladies spend the day packing cans with vintage 1950s labels. What´s inside? Almost anything you can figure out from the sea, with sauces ranging from mild oils to Thai-hot spicy stuff. A treasure.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 34, close to the waterfront at Praça do Comércio;
tel: 21 887 1058

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Some bars resemble shrines on which the faithful worship the gods of good drink, good food and good companionship. This is one of these. Just a hop from Picasso Museum (Barri Gotic), it melts ageing local customers, trendy young crowds and the odd tourist into revering its wonderful cava (really affordable) and great tapas (don´t miss the anchovies).

C/Montcada 22, Barcelona, phone(00 34 93) 319 7003

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A traditional Alentejan joint in Bairro Alto, where diminutive space is inversionally proportional to the food quality. Forget the mercurial service: the gambas ao alho (garlic sauce shrimps) may be the best you´ll ever taste. Nice value, too.

No sign, but it’s on a corner of Rua do Norte (number 46), low Bairro Alto;
tel: 21 346 4265
Open every day except Monday from 7pm

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