The lodge is situated on Wichub-Wala island about five minutes' boat trip from El Porvenir airport. It is a rustic, two-storey, bamboo structure and they feed you three meals a day and provide all transport. The price (c$40-50 per night per person) includes a trip for most of the day to the remoter islands for swimming, snokelling etc and then, on the return leg, a sidevisit to a more populated island to see more of the Kuna islanders flogging their locally made molas. The beaches were superb and the lodge was fine - it's not luxury, but there is a cold shower, running water and the hosts are very friendly. So a bit like camping but under bamboo. During my stay the other guests tended to be the more adventurous types of traveller and spanned all ages and nationalities. Recommended for a two-three day visit, especially as there are no mosquitoes here.

My hotel in Panama City made the reservation on my behalf but we went through three different phone numbers. Try 507-2275308 (the host speaks Spanish) Fax: 507-2252568.
Address: Kuna Niskua Lodge, Wichub-Wala, Porvenir, Kuna Yala, Apdo 280 Zona 1, Panama. For flights, www.airpanama.com although another airline does fly from Albrook airport as well.

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Getting around Panama City can be tricky at certain times of the day. There are several bus routes that essentially go along the city but the queues for these can be enormous during the rush hour (as many as 100 people). In addition, the buses tend to go to places you don't really want to visit.

The only other alternative is to travel by taxi and while these are numerous during busy periods taxi drivers are picky over where they take you: I have frequently spent between 20 minutes to more than an hour trying to flag one from Ancon to the El Cangrejo area. They also overcharge, especially if your grasp of Spanish is weak, and will not issue receipts so I suggest (a) agree a fare before you get in, and (b) if you need receipts, buy a receipt book from Office Depot or the Rey supermarkets. Taxis hovering outside big hotels will charge at least two to three times the 'normal rate' but they will provide receipts (usually). In summary, just be patient!

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