Ignore the horribly tourist-clogged Dunns River Falls on the north coast, and drive to YS Falls, buried away in lush tropical parkland on an old family stud farm. Guides are there to help you on to vine swings for some Tarzan action, and you can buy a Red Stripe and a beef pattie, but that’s about as commercialised as it gets. Go early in the morning and you may even get the whole place to yourself.

YS Estate, near Black River, St Elizabeth.
ysfalls@cwjamaica.com

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The most picturesque bar in the Caribbean, built from driftwood on stilts half a mile out into the ocean. Get a fisherman in Black River to take you out in his boat, and let the owner, Floyde, cook you escovitch snapper with rice and peas. If you go during the daytime, you’ll probably see his tame sting rays idling in the water beneath your feet, hoping for your leftovers.

Any boat from the wharf in Black River, St Elizabeth.

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