Having been driven nuts by incessant requests to buy something or taste food at Jemma El-Fna I pulled my mobile and pretended I was talking. People are much less likely to pester you. Obvious, but I've seen a many distressed tourist trying to untangle themselves from the charms of 10,000 sellers.

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For some reason or other, superstition or plain dislike of being actors in our holiday snaps, Moroccans hate being photographed. Makes any street photography a nightmare, although most people prefer to quietly step away or lurk in the shade as opposed to making a scene. If you need a close-up portrait, do ask and expect a request for money. I strongly suggest not tipping even at the expense of not having that colourful mint seller in your album. Some folks do agree to be photographed for nothing, but bizzarely, while tuning my lens on one seller I had a policeman coming by and checking that I've got my subject's consent. Children on streets are ready to put a price tag on their father's footprints, so expect some young chap proudly demanding a price. Gently send them away.

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Argan oil is highly prized, used both in cooking and cosmetics. Some funny legends about goats - do ask. Shops in Morocco are full of it, but stories abound about fake or diluted products. You can go directly to places where argan nuts are shelled and milled. The cooperatives - usually run by women - are everywhere on the road from Essaouira to Marrakech. On recommendation from my hotel I went quite far - to Cooperative Feminine Argan El Farah in Hanchan, a 25-minute drive from E'ra. Don't know if I needed to go that far, but they had a girl with passable English, which doesn't happen everywhere, so I could ask questions. This was the only place where I could take photos of people at work, more importantly, women at work (they're kind of invisible otherwise). Drivers at the grand-taxi station in E'ra were proposing to take me there for 450 dhrs (30 quid!), but I haggled it down to 150 round-trip and 30 mins waiting (walk away until you really get it your way is one technique). So I talked to the coop lady, took my photos and they gave me a taste of the oil for cooking and some wonderful paste made with argan oil, almonds and honey. Be prepared for a bit of shock when shopping begins. Even at producers level it ain't cheap at all - 250 ml bottle of oil - cooking or massage - is about 10 quid, the paste costs the same. I've reasoned myself with thoughts of the money going directly to the people who work and not to 100 re-sellers in the chain.

El Hanchan, on the main road from Essaouira to Marrakech or any coop closer to E'ra

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A budget riad. 150 drhs in January 08 for a two-bed room which sleeps three. Average service, no heating, no toilet paper (yes, I know their customs, but the folk who run the place should know ours, too). A manager went furious at the suggestion to keep his private party down after midnight. 20 drs for half of a cup of instant coffee. Very central, though.

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A budget place (I haggled it down to 100dhrs in January 08) with predictably bare rooms (no heating), but a pretty patio and very helpful (if not English-speaking) staff. No ensuites, but bathrooms are clean and showers powerful. Thirty steps off the main tourist drag in a predictably scruffy alleyway, takes some time to locate.

10 rue Abdessalam Labadi www.riadessaouira.com 00212(0)24783323

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In no way a suggestion to be over-suspicious or paranoid, but first time visitors to Moroccan cities please do know that any offers to show you something usually mean you will have to reward (and unexpectedly heavily) in the end. More obvious in Marrakech, but even in the more laidback Essaouria I had a very friendly old chap who was very keen to show me old boats being repaired in the harbor. As it was just there, on the spot, I haven't thought he was thinking of himself as a guide. But naturally, a request for 50 dirhams followed. That's about 3 pounds, so five minutes of gazing at the underbellies of ships translates into something comparable to National Trust. I thrust five dirhams into his hand and walked off - the good thing is that people rarely make fuss. But the sad fact is that almost everyone who approached me during my week there was really keen to promote some sale or receive a payment. This does wear you out.

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I've read this in the travel guides and just saw in action today: after lots of friendly talk and having come down in price only 25% (remember you MUST haggle, you are respected for this in this part of the world) the seller waited for me to come and get cash and when I got back almost wrapped my carpet in a tight parcel. Only it wasn't the one I chose.

I have corrected him though, and he was smooth as a silk on this. Remember to see your carpet wrapped. And don't forget to haggle. And, better - get some idea what carpets are about. Things are beauituful, but naive buyers are being had ruthlessly.

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Generally, beer in Moscow is either crap or very expensive crap pretending to be German at £3 a glass. 317 serves a good pint called Rubinovoe (Ruby) at 70 roubles a go.

The place is relaxing, none of the modern Russian pomp and forced chic. TV with endless reels of fashion walks is, alas, on all the time (muted), but concentrate on beer and you'll be fine.

Find the White House, the seat of government. Turn your back to the river. The very next street to the left of the government compound is the one you need. Nearest metro: Smolenskaya or Krasnopresnenskaya metro

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You're in a cold, smelly suburban train full of drunken youths going back to the outskirts. There's no escape and so you need a train seller. They come one after another advertising their wares in powerful voices no earplugs can fight off. These guys can feed you (crisps, nuts, dried squid), get you drunk (beer and alcopops), keep you warm (socks and mittens) and educated (everything from neo-nazi newspapers to bibles and Readers Digest).

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What do you mean you don't need a new hoover/microwave/home theatre? Okay, but luck will have it that your mobile's battery expires or your MP3 player packs up. Or you will need one of 30,000 titles in music or film or software. All of them can be found here.

Two-thirds are still fakes or pirated copies no matter what fancy banners may say. Still, the place offers the most complete selection of Russian music and films, latest Hollywood releases, should you miss home or peculiar tunes.

Bagrationovskaya metro, then walk. Check out the large food market on the way

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Exactly what it says on the tin, but don't expect the user-friendly version popular in the west - no colourful boards for kids and no guessing games.

Neat rows of cabinets filled with all crystals and hidden metallic formations possible. None of the descriptions make sense even if your Russian is fluent. But it is endlessly fascinating just to watch the hidden lives of stones and cavities. In the summers there are table tennis courts for rent nearby.

Leninsky prospect 18; www.fmm.ru

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