The catamaran from Split to Hvar takes one hour, and the ferry takes just over two.

If you're not pressed for time (they cost the same - 38kuna or £3.50), take the ferry as you can sit on the top deck and sunbathe as you pass by beautiful islands.

from Split harbour, Jandrolinja ferries/catamarans

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We stayed in this apartment for one night before taking a ferry to the islands. You couldn't ask for a better location (right next to cathedral square), and the apartment was lovely with air conditioning.

Maybe a bit expensive if staying longer, but I thought the price was still reasonable at £20/night per person (high season). The owners were also very nice and helpful, giving local tips on restaurants/bars etc.

BASE rooms, Kraj Svetog Ivana 3, 21000 Split, Hrvatska
tel: +38598735137 +38521317375 +38521483186,
mail@base-rooms.com
www.base-rooms.com

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Beautiful square right in the centre of the old palace walls, with cathedral lit up at night. We passed through at about 11pm and there were loads of people sitting on cushions on the stone steps listening to a woman with guitar accompaniment who was singing from a bar, and waiters were coming round to take drink orders - perfect ambiance in magical setting!

right next to cathedral

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Lovely rocky beach with deck chairs for hire and plenty of shade from forest if wanted. Large area so not crowded. The sea was crystal clear and the snorkelling was great!

one of closest Pakleni islands - take a taxi boat from Hvar town (30kuna/£2.80 return), about 15/20 mins

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Fantastic rustic family-run restaurant, serving Dalmatian tapas. The home-made food was excellent and the family were very welcoming. The drunken figs dessert was great! Might be worth reserving as we had to wait a while. Average price.

Head up hill towards fortress from main square, past Zimmer Frei bar and Paradise Garden restaurant (also excellent). Turn left and walk along until you see the barrel with the restaurant name painted on it on one of the tiny roads leading up off to your right.

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Great late night bar/club, a local recommended this to us. Everyone spills out onto the steps outside. Lively fun crowd.

alley on right behind Nautica, leading off main harbour. You pass a small casino on your right just before the alley.

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Italian restaurant right on main square - great food, reasonable price and beautiful setting.

Main square, Hvar Town

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We had a fantastic week in Hvar, which has earned the reputation as the St Tropez of Croatia.

Some info that i would have found useful/interesting before going: Its reputation is accurate - it is fun and fashionable, and the price of eating and drinking is more comparable to western European cities than other parts of Croatia/other towns on Hvar island.

Hvar town is beautiful but very busy in July and August (although if you want to party then this is great!).

If sandy beaches are your thing, then Hvar probably isn't. The beaches are either pebbles or large rocks (can be uncomfortable).

There are sea urchins! Buy some rubber shoes.
Snorkelling is great, definitely worth investing in a snorkel kit.

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Beautiful pebble beach to the east of Hvar. You have to walk down a dirt trail to get to it. The snorkelling here was excellent, and the beach was quite large and not too crowded. We had a great meal here in the restaurant on the beach - huge plate of grilled prawns and scampi!

If driving from Hvar, there's a long car parking bay on the side of road with a bus stop.

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This was our favourite beach. Not too overcrowded, round pebbles, bright turquoise water, no sea urchins (common on many of the beaches on Hvar).

We headed for a little sheltered cove off to the right of the beach which was meant to be for nudists. Not only does this have shade from the trees, but there were less people. The majority of people sunbathing there weren't nude, and as long as the odd naked couple doesn't disturb you, it's ideal! Great snorkelling here too, as on most beaches in Hvar.

Good restaurant on beach with BBQ fish and meat.

Get taxi boat from Hvar for 30 kuna return (£2.80), takes about 20 mins. The beach is called Mekcevina or something similar

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If you are planning on going to Zavala or Sveti Nedelja beach, don't go by scooter. Nothing can prepare you for the long, dark tunnel you have to pass through to get to them.

Scooters aren't meant to use it, although they didn't tell us this in the rental shop. There are literally no lights, so it is pitch black as the scooter lights are not designed to light up the road but just to be seen.

We had to follow the car in front very closely to see by his tail lights, and the tunnel was damp so we were afraid of slipping. On the way back it was worse as there was a car behind us and we were able to see the road which was not properly surfaced, full of ruts and pot holes, and very narrow. We were both shaking when we finally got to the end!

on way to Zavala beach

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If you are planning on staying a little further out of Hvar centre and renting a scooter or car to get into town or see more of the island, be aware that there only seems to be one company that rents them and it's very expensive!

We were shocked to pay £32 a day for a banged-up old scooter which could hardly make it up the hills (we paid £7 a day last year in Greece). Cars were £56 a day.

Having said that, it is worth it for at least a day, to visit some of the beaches, and to take the old road via Brusje on the way home, gorgeous view from top of Hvar looking out towards Brac as the sun sets.

Rent scooters from the bus station at Hvar

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I spent a long time researching apartments in Hvar as I had heard it was better to book ahead in August (although in the end, there were lots of people offering accommodation as we got off the ferry).

This was one of the few apartments I found that looked comfortable, central (in old fortress part of town) and modern for a reasonable price. We paid £34 a night for two people. The terrace was huge and had a fantastic view of the harbour and Pakleni islands. We had air con (you will need it in July/Aug), and were two minutes' from the main square. Owners were friendly and speak good English. I think they also have an apartment for four people.

Prosper Caric <prosper.caric@st.t-com.hr
00385 91 725 2481 (Natasa Caric)
(google "prosper caric" for photos)

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