When in Lencois, Bahia, ask about Marcelo Luz at any hostel (preferably Auberge dos Duendes). He's known for his dog called Negona and has an absolute passion for the National Park. You will love him for his singing, his storytelling, his knowledge of Europe and philosophy and for his imperative to: "Always caca in the hole!"

His email:
cacainthehole@hotmail.com

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There are no roads, only sand paths - small enough to walk around - and beautifully secluded fishing villages. Go in September, it's low season so there's few tourists. Amazing caipiroska stands on beaches, good nightlife and you can watch the sun rise over the ocean.

Take a ferry from the port in Salvador. It's a two-hour, stomach churning journey. However, well worth it.

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