One of the best music venues in the city. On our visit, late on a Sunday night, we saw a three-piece comprising a double-bass player with a massive quiff, a flamenco guitarist with long jet-black hair, white shirt, black tie and trademark cigarette hanging from his lower lip and a steel guitarist who looked like a cross between Steve Buscemi and Tom Waits.

The three increased to seven when they were joined by other musicians including a clarinetist, trumpeter and a sultry singer. It's hidden away down a back alley in the Gothic Quarter but once inside, you won't want to leave. Nothing is rushed, it's not at all poncey and the vibe gets better as the morning approaches. Get there early (before 10) to secure a seat. For a change from the normal bar scene, head to the Harlem.

C/ Comtessa De Sobradiel 8
+34 933 100 755

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Get away from the crowds around El Born and the Gotic Quarter and head down to Barceloneta, an old fishing village by the harbour. It's less crowded and feels more authentic then other parts of the city.

The restaurants, which predominately specialise in seafood, are excellent. And if you don't like seafood, it's still a nice place for a stroll around the menu before heading to the beach.

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Lovely bistro with exposed brickwork and candlelit tables. The waitress went through the menus in English. We found the food and wine to be faultless. Three courses with wine around £65. Excellent value in an area that's a bit of the beaten track but close enough to visit the excellent Bercy village.

55 rue Traversière, 12th
+33 1 44 68 0816

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Smart, clean stylish apartments in the heart of the El Born district. Friendly service. Very affordable (only 90 euros for a studio). We stayed in a studio next to Santa Maria Church which came with a balcony.

Tel. (+ 34) 93 268 28 68
Mov. (+ 34) 629 305 375
Fax (+ 34) 93 268 15 17
E-mail: dani.riera@inside-bcn.com
www.inside-bcn.com

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