Avoid Perssia and Fira. Fira is overcrowded, overhyped and feels more like Ibiza than an exclusive Greek island.

Perssia is just plain tacky with an awful beach, and caters only to the British package tour of a certain demographic - as witnessed by ubiquitous signs for 'full English breakfasts' and the Sun and Fredrick Forsyth novels in the newsagents. Whilst Oia is also overcrowded (especially when cruiseships dock), it is indescribably pretty, with better beaches, and with the best views on the island.

Oia doens't have the nightlife of Fira, but the atmosphere is much much nicer, and you can always pop over to Fira to go clubbing.

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Melenio cafe is a great place in the centre of Oia. It is on a little terrace and has the best views over Santorini. Very different to the rest of the restaurants/cafes in the village, very relaxed with amazing cakes and fresh juices.

Oia hostel is a great, clean and cheap place to stay (and Santorini certainly isn't cheap). It's very un-hostel like in a positive way and in an excellent location.

Ammoudi port is the best place for a swim in Oia; however the climb back up to the village is pure torture. It is a rocky cove with the clearest water I have ever seen, but space is limited so get there early.

Visiting vineyards is a must, especially as most have small restaurants attached.

Also, Atlantis Books is a rare find of a bookshop anywhere in the world. It is in Oia centre and must be visited, international literature, and the shop is a delight.

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Katharos Beach - one of the best beaches in Santorini. Follow signs out of Oia village and it is a 15 minute walk.

It is hidden away between rocksides and cliffs of the island, with some amazing layers of stones acting as your backdrop. Never crowded and no annoying umbrellas/deckchairs to rent. Black sand and amazing waves.

On the way down to the beach there is the Katharos bar, a great relaxed and unpretentious place. Not tacky, not commercial or overstyled (unlike the rest of the island) - open bar, canvas roof, lots of cushions and chilled music. Again, I've never seen it crowded. Great place to have a drink after the beach.

The whole area makes a great change from the rest of Santorini - busy, busy, busy. Those famed sunsets of Santorini refer in fact to those at Katharos beach.

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