Portuguese food at its finest. They should have at least one Michelin star, but apparently the French do not think Portugal is part of Europe.

As you arrive, you are installed in an ante room with antique furniture where pre-dinner drinks and amouse bouches are served. One is presented with the menu and once your meal is ready you are seated in the small adjoining dining room (ten or twelve tables, I think).

The seafood is out of this world, particularly the codfish, but last time I was there they prepared a pork loin with a fennel and prune sauce that was magnificent. Very good selection of wines, both local and from other European countries. Desserts are very dangerous indeed.

The place (an old house in a small square) is beautiful. The pace is relaxed. I have had memorable meals there. Expensive but not to excess.

Travessa de Amoreiras 1, close to Jardin de Las Amoreiras and the big shopping mall; tel: 21 388 5376;
Metro: Rato;
Open Mon-Fri 1-3pm; Mon-Sat 8-11pm (reservations required)

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