Excellent atmospheric bar full of locals all having a good time and doing it in a civilised manner.
No English spoken but ask for 'chop Quilmes' (draught beer) and that may be all the Spanish you need!

I met six other Irishmen at a football game and they announced they were off to a bar they had found that they really liked - turned out to be the same one I had discovered days before: Bar Seddon!
The food is not bad either.

Corner Defensa and Chile.
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A typical Argentinian parilla. Order the bif de chorizo, which is basically a sirloin (nothing to do with the sausage!). You'll get one big enough for two; order potatoes (papas) any way you like (natural - boiled; fritas- chips). Bottle of Malbec or a Qulimes beer.

Follow with a helados (ice cream) and coffee. In June it set me back 40 pesos - including tip.
Definitely no fancy stuff here, this is a local restaurant full of portenos. Although tourists do know about it. Fantastico, I thought!

Stroll down the street to Bar Seddon afterwards. In fact, San Telmo is full of interesting bars, cafes and restaurants.

Avenida Defensa 858, San Telmo.
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Beautifully presented and amazing artifacts from Central to South America. It is quite small so you don't need long.

www.precolombino.cl
Plaza de Armas metro.

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The 'hippest' bar on Ponsonby Road. Usually with a 30-something crowd but they are joined by a lot of the younger set on the weekends.
It is comprised of small rooms and is dark and comfortable.

Live music most nights - you must hear the Grand Central Band with their take on all types of music. The singer has a fabulous voice; the keyboardist used to bring his Hammond organ along (complete with Lesley) but sticks to his Yamaha these days.

Retire to one of the sofas in the back rooms to escape the crowds.

Ponsonby Road, near Richmond Road.
www.grandcentral.net.nz

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For budget travellers, Food Alley at the bottom of Albert Street is a must. It has stalls selling food from almost every country in Asia, from Turkey to Japan and at rock bottom prices.

Try the lamb pasanda from "A Taste of Turkey" (the proprietor is actually Iranian) for NZ$8.50 (that's £2.40 in Brit money).
The food is better than your average food hall.

Lower Albert Street, opposite Stamford Plaza hotel, near the viaduct.

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