Church dedicated to the martyred St Cecilia, the patron saint of musicians. The building itself (some parts dating back to the 12th-century) is stunning enough, hidden away behind a courtyard. But more beautiful are the ruins in the cellar (turn left inside main door, a small fee is charged for entrance). Roman ruins, once at street level, have been excavated, giving the bizarre experience of walking along a ruined, underground street with rooms either side of you (one of which is alleged to be St Cecilia’s).

To top it all off, at the far end of these ruins lies the entrance to the stunning Byzantine-style crypt dedicated to St Cecilia: an incredibly beautiful room to find hidden alongside the dustier Roman ruins. The most magical place I visited in Rome.

22 Piazza di Santa Cecilia

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