A plush residential neighbourhood located around a hill in the north-east of Nice. This is where the Brits and Russians came to stay and built villas during the Belle Epoque, hence the exotic architecture, notably the Regina Palace, previously a hotel and the location of Matisse's workshop.

The park at the top of the hill (just after the statue of Queen Victoria) houses a nice olive grove, Roman ruins (with the associated archaeological museum), the Matisse Museum and the monastery with its phenomenal gardens (and nice views).

All in all, a great place to chill out for an afternoon, mingle with the locals on a weekend and wander around.

The park is also where the jazz festival takes place every summer - www.nicejazzfest.com - which is why the alleys are named after the jazz musicians who have performed there (Miles Davis and Dizzy Gillespie among others).

A pleasant walk of about 20 minutes slightly uphill from the train station, follow Boulevard de Cimiez.

Otherwise Bus No 15 from Place Massena, direction Rimiez. Timetables at www.lignedazur.com.

The park is open until around 8pm in the summer; closes earlier in the winter.

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Small, family-run restaurant packed with locals and regulars near the train station with great service, good quality food and large portions.

Makes a change from the tourist traps (bad food and rip-off service) around the pedestrian zone and the flower market/Cours Saleya.

Three-course menus start at €14 (very filling dish of the day); the €26 menu is almost gastronomic (frogs legs, veal sweetbread, foie gras or sole meunière).

A great address!

25 Rue d'Angleterre, between the back of Notre Dame Cathedral and the train station.
Closed on Sunday nights and Mondays.
Tel: 04 93 88 64 48

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Small, reasonably priced and clean 1-star hotel (but deserves 2) in a very central location between the seaside and the railway station - and great value for money.

Recommended by lots of major guide books.

Kevin, the friendly British owner, has a blog with tips on visiting the Riviera on his website, which makes for an interesting read.

22 Rue de Russie, 06000 Nice. www.nicenotredame.com, info@nicenotredame.com
Tel: 0033 (0)4 93 88 70 44
fax: 0033 (0)4 93 82 20 38.
Five minutes' walk from the train station and 10 from the seaside; just off the main shopping street (Avenue Jean Médecin).

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