I collect hotel stays like spinsters collect cat figurines and Kasbah du Toubkal is the best place I've ever stayed.

At 250E per night for the deluxe suite, it's not cheap, but worth every penny.

Here's why:
- Your every need is anticipated (except alcohol, but they notify you in advance, and it's fine to bring your own)
- Scrumptious food
- Insane 360 degree views of the Atlas Mountains
- Walking trails of all lengths and levels of difficulty
- Genuine hospitality
- Multiple opportunities to mingle with fellow travellers
- Small pleasures (bright flowers, kittens, freshly-baked bread)

It's only a one-hour drive from Marrakesh.

It's not five-star luxury, but it's five-star charm.

www.kasbahdutoubkal.com/
+ 33 (0)5 49 05 01 35

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PLACES TO STAY
We were happy with the Cherifa Suite (approximately $200/night) at Madada Mogador. Nice, contemporary style; convenient location (just inside the medina); pleasant manager who is happy to provide advice and answer questions; and a ginormous deck. And, the liquor store is only a 15-minute walk.

THINGS TO DO
- Have a drink at the Taros rooftop deck. Pretty people, pretty views.

- It's cliche but, see The Ramparts at dusk.

- Get scrubbed at the Hammam Lilla Mira. This was the (unexpected) highlight of our trip to Essaouira.

- Buy argan oil. You'll never find it this cheap in The States.

- Visit Galerie d'Art Damgaard. Stunning pieces by local artists on sale for reasonable prices.

- Treat yourself to aperitifs (and impressive, complementray hors d'ouevres) in the Heure Bleu lounge.

WHERE TO EAT
- Have a drink on the rooftop deck at Taros. Beautiful view; even beautiful-er people.

- Dine at Le Patio. Sophisticated, yet homey. DO order seafood.

- Lunch at Creperie for a safe, no-nonsense crepe in a convenient location.

- Aperitif It at the Heure Bleu's swanky cocktail lounge. The (complementary) "bar snacks" are first-class.

- Dine at Restaurant La Licorne. Charming. Order the Lyonnaise salad (trust me on this).

Full Essaouira trip report (plus Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains) at: www.travelmusings.net/morocco/

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My friend and I booked the Suite Royale (after hours of comparing riads) for $175 night (May/June) and it was amazing. Insanely so. Huge - five or so rooms including a bathroom with a lounge and fireplace, a grand piano room, a relaxation room, a balcony overlooking the pool, 15 foot ceilings and collection-worthy furniture.

Plus, the riad is in a great location, the staff were friendly and helpful, and the decor was stunning.

Restaurant and bar suggestions:

- Al Fassia for dinner. Absolutely go. But the secret is out, so book your reservations in advance via the internet. We received an excellent wine recommendation (and drank it the rest of the trip). The food was the best we had all week. Lastly: great atmosphere and people-watching. The human scenery was half the fun.

- Le Foundouk for dinner. The inside is very nice, but it's nothing compared to the rooftop deck, which would be worth a trip even if the food wasn't so good. Getting there is a little scary but that's part of the fun.

- La Mamounia for a drink. You will have to give-up your firstborn to pay for it, but lounging outside is such a nice break from the Marrakesh chaos that it's worth it.

- Maison Arabe for a drink at Le Club. It has that Rick's North African vibe. Piano player, upscale clientele, mixologist who takes his drinks seriously. A good way to start the evening.

Morocco trip report (Marrakesh, Essaouira, Atlas Mountains) at: www.travelmusings.net/morocco/

www.riadmalika.com
29 Arset Aouzal, Bab Doukkala, 40000 Marrakech, Maroc
00 212 524 38 54 51
Google map: tinyurl.com/3xvu4nr

www.foundouk.com
55 Souk Hal Fassi, Kat Bennahid, 00212 (0)524378190

www.alfassia.com
MH 9bis route de l'Ourika, 40000 Marrakech
TEL: +212 524 38 38 39

www.mamounia.com
Avenue Bab Jdid, 40040, Marrakech
+212524388600

www.lamaisonarabe.com
1, Derb Assehbé, Bab Doukkala
Marrakech Médina
(+212) 5 24 38 70 10

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- Stay at the ITC Grand Central (although it's kind of removed) in the Towers. You can use Starwood points

- Check out the Ellora Caves on Elephanta Island

- Buy a Thailand Tatler

- Stop by Dhobi Ghat. Be prepared for some interactions

- See Haji Ali Dargah

- Go next door to the Mahalaxmi Temple (and bring socks)

- Shop at Bombay Electric if you want fashionable clothing and price is no object

- Lunch at Not Just Jazz by the Bay

- Enjoy evening cocktails on the deck of The Intercontinental

- Visit the Jain temple near Malabar Hill

Thailand Tatler:
www.thailandtatler.com/2010/03/index.html

ITC Grand Central:
www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1540

Bombay Electric:
www.bombayelectric.in/

Not Just Jazz by the Bay:
www.mars-world.com/restaurants/jbb.html

Intercontinental Hotel
www.ichotelsgroup.com/

Information on many of the tourist spots is available on Wikipedia:
www.wikipedia.org

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- Visit the Hindu Temple in Varkala Town on a Sunday morning. Intimidating but interesting. You will receive a lot of attention.

- Take the cliffwalk south, past the shops and restaurants. It's very pretty

- Look into the Blue Water Beach Resort

- Book some spa treatments. Spas rated as Olive Leaf or Green Leaf by the Kerala Tourism Board are "legit"

- Just because beer isn't on the menu doesn't mean it isn't available.

- Eat at Cafe del Mar.

Kerala Tourism Board:
www.keralatourism.org/

Blue Water Beach Resort:
bluewaterstay.com/index.html

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Stay at the Old Harbour Hotel or the Malabar House (both are upscale and charming). Sip wine (or a beer) and nosh on small plates at Malabar House's Divine wine bar. Check out Jew Town, taking socks for the synagogue tour, watch the Chinese fishing nets at sunset, and indulge in a Kalari massage at Malabar House. And don't miss the chocolate cake at Kashi Art Cafe on Burgher Street

www.malabarhouse.com;
www.oldharbourhotel.com;
www.kashiartgallery.com

Malabar House:
www.malabarhouse.com/

Kashi Art Cafe:
kashiartgallery.com/

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I never wanted to leave Casa Colvale. A large house turned into a boutique hotel, you feel like you're staying at a fabulous friend's estate.

I cherished my riverside meals on the deck: the chef prepares dishes to order and the scene is unparalleled. Loved the live sitar players.

I never grew bored: the owner and staff were outgoing and the property offered multiple activities, including canoe rides, speedboat trips to nearby beaches, spa treatments, fishing, etc.

I especially enjoyed how conducive this property is to meeting other people.

Super-friendly owner and staff.

www.casacolvale.com/home.html
+91 9960605416/ +91 8322416737

Google map: tinyurl.com/yhu5aq2

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Ortygia was by far my favorite place in Sicily: much friendlier than Palermo and much less touristy than Taormina. If fact, it's one of my favorite places ever.

Once again, if you're unfamiliar with driving in Italy, beware: navigating the island is terrifying.

I loved staying at Approdo delle Sirene. The owner is sweet, the location is ideal, and the decor charming (plus you can't beat having your own personal netbook).

You are obligated to visit the Parco Archeologico if you go to Siracusa. I liked it -didn't think it was great - but would have kicked myself if I had missed it.

And as long as you're in the area, check-out the Santuario della Madonna: the contemporary, geometric design was a welcome departure from the multitudes of duomos.

Speaking of duomos, don't miss the Piazza del Duomo and surrounding buildings. I enjoyed perching on the steps and eating my weight in pistachio gelato while people-watching.

If you're in Ortygia on a Saturday, be sure to visit the market in the morning while everything is fresh.

Visit Noto: it's only about a one-hour drive away. Quaint town, interesting architecture.

My big regret was not eating at Il Duomo in Ragusa, approximately two hours from Siracusa. I was just too frazzled from the crazy driving to take on a four-hour adventure. It's the only two Michelin star rated restaurant in Sicily, and obviously the best. I'm truly an idiot for canceling my reservation.

Approdo delle Sirene B&B:
www.apprododellesirene.com/

Parco Archeologico:
www.parcoarcheologico.com/
(the site is under construction)

Il Duomo
www.ristoranteduomo.it/

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First off, if you're driving to Taormina, ensure that your directions to your hotel are spot-on perfect: the twisting hills are confusing. The Michelin Guide directions (online) are extremely detailed.

I liked the Bel Soggiorno: great location and some character. But I hated my room. Book a perimeter room with a balcony/view.

Another tip: be careful of crime. I'm pretty sure that I was targeted while I was there.

The Palazzo San Domenico hotel is an atmospheric place: sneak in and roam the halls at night.

I regret not having visted Castelmola, the village on the cliff overlooking Taormina. I've since heard that there's a phallic-themed bar (Bar Turrisi).

Michelin Guide:
www.michelinguide.com/us/index.html

Hotel Bel Soggiorno:
www.belsoggiorno.com/uk/

Bar Turrisi:
www.barturrisi.com/

My Sicily trip report:
www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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I love the wonderfully bizarre Atelier Sul Mare art hotel in Castel di Tusa: each room was designed by a different artist. If you're in the area you should spend a half-day in the charming village of Cefalu and climb La Rocca: the view is worth the work.

Atelier Sul Mare: www.ateliersulmare.it/applicazione/index_asm.asp?lang=en

My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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I hated Palermo. With the exception of the Capuchin Catacombs (just outside of town: a quick bus ride or walk, depending upon where you stay) and the Villa Palagonia.

The Capuchin Catacombs are not for the faint of heart. Fascinating, though.

The Villa Palagonia (aka the Villa of Monsters) is in Bagheria, an easy train ride from Palermo. If you appreciate the bizarre, you'll like PV.

Capuchin Catacombs: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_catacombs_of_Palermo

Villa Palagonia: www.villapalagonia.it/

My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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I hated Palermo. With the exception of the Capuchin Catacombs (just outside of town: a quick bus ride or walk, depending upon where you stay) and the Villa Palagonia.

The Capuchin Catacombs are not for the faint of heart. Fascinating, though.

The Villa Palagonia (aka the Villa of Monsters) is in Bagheria, an easy train ride from Palermo. If you appreciate the bizarre, you'll like PV

Capuchin Catacombs: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_catacombs_of_Palermo

Villa Palagonia: www.villapalagonia.it/

My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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I hated Palermo. With the exception of the Capuchin Catacombs (just outside of town: a quick bus ride or walk, depending upon where you stay) and the Villa Palagonia.

The Capuchin Catacombs are not for the faint of heart. Fascinating, though.

The Villa Palagonia (aka the Villa of Monsters) is in Bagheria, an easy train ride from Palermo. If you appreciate the bizarre, you'll like PV

Capuchin Catacombs: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_catacombs_of_Palermo

Villa Palagonia: www.villapalagonia.it/

My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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The Sicily podcasts were the reason I chose Sicily as a destination. I found them invaluable when planning my trip because they are informative and successfully convey a sense of place.

Rick's podcasts: www.ricksteves.com/radio/archive.htm

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BB22 is centrally located: close to main roads and two bus stations. The setting is intimate and the breakfast room is charming. The decor is very Elle Decor.

www.bb22.it
Largo Cavalieri di Malta, 22
(Palazzo Pantelleria)
alle spalle di Piazza S. Domenico
90133 Palermo
Tel./Fax +39 091 6111610

My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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First off, Louisiana isn't located in Copenhagen, but it's a quick and easy train ride away.

Artists featured include Picasso, Lichtenstein, Calder, Moore, Warhol and Rauschenberg. The building itself will satisfy architect buffs and the grounds, with green, grassy hills sloping into the Orestund Strait are gorgeous. Sit outside and sip wine or coffee and Dane-watch (they're a good-looking bunch).

Museum website: www.louisiana.dk/dk/Service+Menu+Right/English

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Buy the welcome card - you can purchase it in advance (and pay a hefty shipping fee) or buy it at the airport at Gate 13. It provides 50% off of attractions and free subway transportation for the time period that you select.

Don't hesitate to try the bus system or subway. Both are inexpensive, intuitive, quick, and user-friendly.

Full report at www.travelmusings.net

Visitor card: www.visitberlin.de/welcomecard/index.php?lang=en

Public transportation instructions/tips: wikitravel.org/en/Berlin

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My lunch at this Michelin two-star restaurant was the highlight of my trip to Denmark. It wasn't cheap, but it was worth every DK: brilliant, delicious food, impeccable service, cozy atmosphere.

Full meal description, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net

www.noma.dk/main.php?lang=en

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I'd recommend this place because I enjoy unique hotels. The owner of the hotel, an artist, designed/decorated each room differently and some are downright bizarre: the room with the coffins, padded cell, mirror room, Grandma's, Symbol Room. I enjoyed my tranquil Temple room.

The hotel is located in just off of Ku'damm in Charlottenburg.

www.propeller-island.com/rooms_neu/room_detail/01/index.php
www.travelmusings.net

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Unsicht-Bar is Berlin's completely dark restaurant. Diners order from a cryptic menu, and then are escorted into a pitch-black dining room (the servers are sight-impaired). I had a blast.

www.unsicht-bar.com/unsicht-bar-berlin-v2/en/html/home_1_idea.html
www.travelmusings.net

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