The Ivy Guesthouse is next to the central market and has an excellent restaurant (try the stilton burger) and bar with Angkor beer on tap. The rooms have modern air-conditioning and the ones at the front have a balcony to watch the bustling marketplace in action. Rooms have hot showers ensuite. The best place I have stayed in south-east Asia.

On the south-west corner of the central market place.

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A chilled out and cheap backpackers guesthouse built on a pier over Boeung Kak lake. Angkor beer on tap and hammocks in the lounge upstairs for lazing around in, internet access and food available too.

On Boeung Kak lake. Go to the mosque and continue down the dirt road, it's second to last on the right, the internet cafe out front is the entrance.

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The Brick Bar has a variety of live bands every night including jazz, blues and ska. The cocktails are excellent and cheap and the beer cold. Waitresses are very attractive and, rather efficiently, never let your glass, jug or bottle empty without bringing a replacement over.

265 Khao San Rd, Phranakorn; www.brickbarkhaosan.com; To the left of McDonald's on Khao San Road

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