Go to the self-service pizza restaurant rather than the a la carte - better views, and cheaper!

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Off the beaten tourist track, but within walkable distance and very impressive - an aqueduct arch cum city gate, and a tomb in the style of a bread oven.

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Get a certain distance out on the Via Appia, the tomb of Caecilia Metella or the Circus of Romulus perhaps, and walk back in, taking in the odd catacomb or church on the way, ending up at Porta Ostiense by the Pyramid of Cestius - what I call the Quo Vadis experience!

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Get to Forum just before it opens (at 9am I think), and go straight in, in the cool of the morning and before it gets too busy. Or walk through it a few times and get to know it, perhaps on the way to the Palatine or Colosseum. And remember the other fora and try to ignore the Mussolini-era Via dei Fori Imperiali carved across them.

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Unlike Ostia or Pompeii, there is absolutely no street plan or logic, just random buildings scattered across the landscape as Hadrian's whim took him. So it's very, very easy to get lost.

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Built into the side of a bank, easy to walk past.

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Stating the obvious, perhaps, but their prices go down the further away you get from the tourist traps.

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An outpost branch of the Capitoline museums. An old power station, like Tate Britain, but braver (the machinery has been left in place) and with some of the 'best of the rest' of their classical sculpture collections.

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It's an odd building for a museum, and there's - mainly - only one route round. Play this to your advantage. Stop where you can and wait for it to get less crowded (at the Sistine Chapel, obviously, but elsewhere too). And if a gallery isn’t open, nil desperandum! - it might not be closed all day (I managed to do three circuits in a day, during which the Bracchio Nuovo, with its Augustus etc, was closed, open, closed respectively!).

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It's split into various branches, all of which are more than worth a visit, and this works out as a cheaper way of doing them all. Only trouble is you have to do them all within a set period of days.

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