This small family-run inn in Tokyo's Ikebukuro district features ultra-clean singles starting at £45 and doubles at £67. The rooms are Japanese-style: tatami mats and futons with private baths. The free light-drenched public bath on the fourth (and top) floor is a delight, and so are the family that own Saiko Inn. It's a 10-minute taxi ride from bustling ikebukuro station (the inn gives a 1000-yen rebate on your arriving taxi receipt.) Ikebukuro's a cool area, with lots of inexpensive restaurants and cafés.

www.familyinn-saiko.com/
2-34-16 Nagasaki, Toshima-Ku
+81(0)03 3972 1315

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This shop stocks the best tshirts ever - many of them designed by artists, all of them graphically striking and the prices are great - they tend to start at £18. They last forever and don't fade.

www.graniph.com/en/index.html
171-8557, Tokyo-Prefecture Ikebukuro PARCO 6F, 1-28-2
+81(0)3-3980-3007

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Originally a school to teach girls how to be free, this 1921 Frank Lloyd Wright building is low-slung and plain-style, and one of the must-sees of the ikebukuro district.

2-31-3 Nishi-ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
+81(0)339717535
www.jiyu.jp/index-e.html
Google map: bit.ly/kFaBCV

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