If you arrive at Siem Reap by bus, you will be 'greeted' by wave after wave of moto drivers, all offering rides to guest houses for 500 riel. There was a security guy keeping them at bay with a stick when my bus arrived! Beware - the price seems far too cheap, and it is. Once they've got you on the bike, they'll give you the hard sell to get you to hire them to be your guide around the Angkor temples etc. It's better to negotiate a realistic price with them (around 4000 riel) and then choose your guide yourself once you've checked into your hotel and freshened up etc. Much better than trying to negotiate while screaming along Siem Reap's streets on the back of a bike!

Siem Reap, bus station

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Lazy Gecko's Cafe makes great food, both Western and Cambodian, and is a good spot for meeting other travellers. On Saturday nights, they run a minibus to the nearby JCA Orphanage, an orphanage for kids who've lost their parents to HIV related illnesses. The kids are always absolutely delighted to get visitors, and they put on a traditional dance show for you and invite you to share a meal with them. The trip is free, but take along a donation (cash, or things like school equipment, clothes etc). A great night is guaranteed for both you and the kids.

Phnom Penh - Lazy Gecko's is on the main backpackers' drag by Boeng Kak lake.

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