It’s a Mexican institution, a department store with cafe, the flagship is in the historic Casa de los Azulejos. Its courtyard restaurant is a good place for coffee and a cake and quite cheap.

Near the Latin American tower on Calle Madero

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Traditional cantina bar full of gay cowboys dancing traditional Mexican folkloric dances. It’s where Pedro Almodovar hangs out when he is in Mexico City. Just push through the swinging cantina doors and join in the mayhem. Best after 11pm on weekends.

Calle Cuba in the centro historico off lazaro cardenas near the palacio de bellas artes; nearest metro: Garabaldi

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A colonial village with cobble stone streets, art markets and Frida Kahlo and Diego Riviera’s house.

Take the metrobus south on Avenue Insurgentes to Miquel de Queveda or a micro bus on Avenue Patriatismo going north to San Angel

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Pre-Colombian ruins with giant Atlantian statues and pyramids.

Take a bus from the terminal del norte to tula and then a taxi (30 ps)

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A giant market, crawling with prostitutes. The main reason to visit is a giant witchcraft market virtually tourist free, where you can buy candles, handicrafts, a love potion or spell for anything, and just soak in the atmosphere.

In the neigbouring block is a giant exotic animal market, again interesting but very sad considering the conditions some animals are kept in. Remember this is not the best part of town and the witchcraft market is not geared towards tourists but to people with deeply held beliefs so be careful not to offend.

Take the metro to La Merced (pink line). You will exit into the main food market. Ask directions to El Mercado de la Brujeria (Witchcraft Market)

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A sprawling Latin American market, where you can buy antiques, handicrafts, fossils, clothes and crystals. Everything in fact at the cheapest prices in the city.

You can have a retrato painted (a picture of a life event that you want a to dedicate to a particular saint). Frida Kahlo collected them. You can see shrines to the Santa Muerte, a pre-Columbian god disguised as a catholic saint dressed as the grim reaper. Sundays are best.

Take a micro bus on Avenue Reforma in the historic centre or Zona Rosa and ask to be put off at the Tianuis (street market) del Tepito

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A basilica dedicated to the virgin of Guadelupe, who appeared on this spot. There is a modern square and basilica where on Sundays you can see traditional dances and an assortment of pilgrims. There are some nice colonial churches and a peaceful park. On top of the hill are excellent views of the city. There is also a giant street market selling religious souvenirs.

Take the metro to basilica or take a micro bus marked La Villa heading north on Avenue Reforma

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An open air art market selling ceramics, craftwork, art, sculptures etc. You can have the best food in the city for next to nothing in the second section of the market, just pull up a stool on the long communal tables.

Where Avenue Reforma and Avenue Insurgentes meet take a micro bus on Reforma or the new metro bus on Insurgentes

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