Surprisingly, one of Zagreb's nicest walks is around it's beautiful cemetery. Not as macabre as it sounds. It's easy to get there by bus, but is also a very do-able walk from the town centre. Gorgeous in autumn - buy roasted chestnuts and enjoy the views. Particularly lovely on All Hallow's Eve - October 31 - when people flock there to lay out thousands of candles on family graves.

Bus No 106 from the cathedral (takes 15 minutes) or tram No 14 from Bana Jelacica square

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This cosy, relaxed and slightly disheveled establishment offers up one of the best menus I've ever come across. Amazing food, wonderful atmosphere. One of the world's best restaurants, an unexpected gem.

Bondi Beach; tel: 02 9365 4924

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