Go to the Gate of India and buy a return ticket (Rs120).

Spend a good hour relaxing on the ferry (an extra rs 10 to sit on top deck).

At Elephanta Island, take the train (rs 10 return) along the jetty, pay a couple of rs to get in and face the walk - a sheer cliff face with steps cut into it and wall-to-wall stalls.

The first cafe (on the left) going up the hill is realy good.

Great fun, it was my first full day in India.

Watch out for the (thieving) monkeys - they jump out and grab whatever takes their fancy, bags, crisps and water bottles,

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Hotel Pearl Palace has to be experienced to be believed.

Incrediably cheap - it cost me the grand total of just under £30.00 (room/food/drinks) for a four-day stay in a hotel which can only be described as a work of art.

The staff are wonderful (with a capital W) and, unlike the four-star hotel I stayed in Agra, who were hell bent on chiselling every last rupee out of me, they bend over backwards to ensure that you get a fair deal.

I cannot reccomend this hotel enough. I for one, will be returning as soon as I can.

Hari Kishan Somani Marg,
Hathroi Fort,Ajmer Road,
Jaipur - 302001.India
www.hotelpearlpalace.com/

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Ask for rooms 805/06 and get a magnificent view of Coloba and the Gate of India.

The owner, Mr Singh is a gentleman of the first order and will (on request) sort everything out for you.

The most sensible thing we did was, as we were arriving at the airport at 11:00pm, pre-order collection by car (four-wheel drive and aircon) from the hotel.

It cost £13 but given the subsequent hassles at every airport/train/bus station involving taxi drivers it was worth every penny and more.

Jasmine Building
41, Garden Road, Colaba,
Mumbai - 400039
www.mumbainet.com/hotels/godwin/

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Very friendly, safe, clean & cheap.

It is by far the best place we stayed whilst trekking across Vietnam - Cambodia.

The owners are simply wonderful.

www.momguesthouse.com/index.html

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Bay of the Descending Dragon ... do not miss out on the opportunity to visit Ha Long Bay, it is incredible.

Your hotel can put you in contact with local tour operators. (I think it was less than £10 per person). Price includes transport (minivan), boat and lunch.

It's about 2 -3 hours drive from Hanoi. www.vietscape.com/travel/halong/

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Hanoi Old Quarter has a street cafe on every corner - you pick what you want & sit on the street (with little tables). Probably best to go with a local person - they will know the best ones!

They're incrediably cheap: three of us ate our fill for £1 in total.

Failing that, try the local cafes (where you sit inside - with the kitchen at your elbow). Cost me £1 for a massive plate of stir-fry beef & Chinese cabbage (delicious) & two beers.

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A small (& quiet) riad deep in the heart of the medina. (You have to abandon the taxi & walk the last 250 yards). Perfect for just laying back and relaxing... Wonderful staff & very friendly owners.

203, Arset Aouzal, Bab Doukkala, Médina;
tel: 00212 24 38 27 13;
www.riadbadra.com

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A great place for a late breakfast. Very clean and friendly.

Wake up to the day with coffee, museli, yoghurt and a free newspaper. The vegetable and cheese omlettes are highly reccomended.

Thapae Gate (cross over the lights at the Art Cafe, turn right as if you where heading to the river and walk for 1 minute

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