Don't give money to the street kids. They go and spend it on glue sniffing. Much better to buy them a packet of biscuits or something similar, but open the packet before handing it over, otherwise it will simply be resold.

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Swayambhunath is a Buddhist stupa atop a hill in the Kathmandu valley. It's best to get there before sunrise - you'll be unlikely to meet any other tourists, just crowds of Nepali and Tibetan people. Swayambhu is a hive of activity at this time, with chanting, meditation and worship playing alongside the pre-school karate class, police training up those steep steps, earnest young men doing their exercises, the games of the monkeys and dogs.

It's a wonderful place at any time, but I think you see it at its best and most natural at sunrise. Beautiful light for photography too, if that's your thing. And there's a lovely view across the Kathmandu valley. If you fancy a walk, there's a lovely peaceful monastery at the top of the next hill along.

It's an easy walk from the centre, but you could also take a bus from Sohrakhutte, or find a taxi. Ask to be dropped at the bottom of the steps, rather than at the top. Then walk up to the stupa

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Paknajol is a nice quiet area with a number of small, family-run guesthouses. It is very close to Thamel, so you're never far from restaurants or bars or shops, but it also offers an escape from Thamel's hassle, chaos (in the high season) and fakeness. I would especially recommend Nirvana Peace Home. It’s around 300 rupees a night for very pleasant rooms, and the staff are wonderful.

A very short walk from Thamel - consult a map. Or any taxi driver should be able to get you there

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