White maize (called elotes) is one of the best steet foods you can buy in Mexico City.
The ears are boiled, then impaled on a wooden stick, and smeared with salt, lime juice, mayonnaise, a parmesan-like cheese and chili powder. It's unbelievably tasty, and a boon for vegetarians who may be feeling a little overwhelmed by the volume of meat on display. a good elote shouldn't set you back more than six or seven pesos.

The same corn, but in kernel form, is cooked into pozole, an amazing everything-soup that you eat with shredded lettuce leaves and raw chopped onion.

On just about any street corner, often from vendors who push steaming urns of corn and call 'elooootes'.

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The Voladores (Totonaca men from Papantla on the Gulf Coast who perfom ancient flying acts) are also your best bet for buying real vanilla pods and vanilla extract in Mexico City.

Just wait for their daily shows outside the Museo Nacional to finish, and ask them 'Tienes vanilla?' For a fraction of the price you'd pay at the tourist shops, you'll get real vanilla, not the essence, straight from the Gulf Coast source.

Los Voladores perform on a platform outside the Museo Nacional, Paseo de la Reforma, Polanco, Mexico City

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