Huge US-style mall near Copacabana/Botafogo with trendy shops and places to eat and drink. Excellent place to while away the time (and spend all your money) if you're stuck for something to do during a rainy afternoon. Try Osklen (www.osklen.com) for super-trendy designer surf wear.

www.riosul.com.br

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Also try it with sliced banana and granola for breakfast - unbeatable.

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Typical Roman trattoria serving authentic regional dishes and family cooking. Try the buccatini alla matriciana, flavored with pancetta, tomatoes, and onions

Via dei Gracchi 55, near the Vatican

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Excellent genuine Italian restaurant in San Lorenzo, slightly off the beaten track, but delicious food (mainly Sicilian) in charming setting. No tourists!

Via dei Sabelli 49-51San LorenzoTel: +39 06 494 0726

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Re the above recommendation - I agree fully, but also recommend trying their caipinha or caipiroska with seriguela, a citrus-like fruit that you just don't get over here. It's delicious!

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