Book early to get an outside table in one of the many Jewish restaurants lining Szeroka, the main square of Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter of Krakow. Time your meal to finish before dusk, and then just sit back and experience the gradual lighting up of the square by the thousands of restaurant table candles (there is virtually no electric lighting). Sip your coffee and vodka and take in the magical atmosphere where the only noise is the gentle, almost reverential hum of conversations and clinking glasses. Nobody seems to leave their tables until late into the evening. The most breathtakingly peaceful experience I've ever had in the centre of a city!

Ulica Szeroka, Kazimierz, about a mile walk, south from the Wawel; A taxi from the centre will cost about 10-12 Zloty, (£2).

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